Newfoundland and Labrador

Newfoundland and Labrador

province of Canada: 143,501 sq mi (371,666 sq km); pop. 552,000; cap. St. John's: abbrev. NL or Nfld & Lab

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Province (pop., 2001: 512,930), one of the four Atlantic provinces of Canada.

Consisting of the island of Newfoundland and Labrador on the mainland, and bounded by Quebec, it extends into the North Atlantic Ocean and is the easternmost part of North America. Its capital is St. John's. It was originally settled by Indians and Eskimos. Viking ruins from с AD 1000 have been found in the northern part of the island. John Cabot claimed the island for England in 1497; the first colony was established at St. John's in 1583. France and England disputed possession of the area, and though England retained control with the 1713 Peace of Utrecht, controversies over fishing rights continued through the 19th century. A province since 1949, it includes the Grand Banks fishing grounds. Fishing, mainly for cod, was virtually the only industry until the early 20th century, when western Labrador's vast iron reserves began to be exploited.

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▪ province, Canada

Introduction

Newfoundland and Labrador, flag of   province of Canada composed of the island of Newfoundland and a larger mainland sector, Labrador, to the northwest. It is the newest of Canada's 10 provinces, having joined the confederation only in 1949; its name was officially changed to Newfoundland and Labrador in 2001. The island, named the “newfoundelande,” or New Found Land, by late-15th-century explorers, lies athwart the Gulf of St. Lawrence (Saint Lawrence, Gulf of). It is separated from Labrador by the narrow Strait of Belle Isle (Belle Isle, Strait of) and from Nova Scotia, to the southwest, by Cabot Strait. The French territory of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon lies off the coast of the Burin Peninsula in southeastern Newfoundland. Labrador is bordered to the north and east by the Labrador Sea (northwestern arm of the Atlantic Ocean) and to the south and west by the province of Quebec.

      Newfoundland and Labrador is the most easterly part of North America, and its position on the Atlantic has given it a strategic importance in defense, transportation, and communications. Its capital city, St. John's (on Newfoundland), for instance, is closer to the coast of Ireland than it is to Winnipeg, Man. Of perhaps greater significance have been the great fish stocks that inhabited the Grand Banks and other fishing grounds to the east and south of Newfoundland, spurring the development of numerous communities stretched along some 14,400 miles (23,200 km) of deeply indented, wave-battered seacoast. These fisheries have been the single most important factor in shaping the history and character of the land and its people. Area 156,453 square miles (405,212 square km). Pop. (2001) 512,930; (2006) 505,469.

Land

Relief, drainage, and soils

 The province's two main components—Newfoundland island and Labrador—must be treated as separate physiographic regions. The island, roughly triangular in shape and with an area (excluding associated islands) of 42,031 square miles (108,860 square km), is part of the Appalachian (Appalachian Mountains) geologic province of North America, in which the landforms run from southwest to northeast and are characterized by continental drift, volcanic action, crustal deformation, ice erosion, and deposition. These forces have produced a highly complex geologic structure, with ancient rocks of Europe and Africa on the east, newer Appalachian rocks on the west, and the bed of the ancient ocean squeezed up between them. On the west coast the land rises abruptly from a narrow coastal plain to the Long Range Mountains, which reach a maximum height of 2,670 feet (814 metres). The mountains give way to a plateau that slopes gently downward to the northeastern coast, with its many headlands, islands, and bays. The plateau is undulating and dotted with thousands of lakes and ponds, numerous streams, and rivers, including the Exploits, Gander, and Humber (Humber River). The coastal terrain is hilly and rugged; the coast itself is marked by numerous bays and fjords, and there are many offshore islands.

      Labrador, with an area of 113,641 square miles (294,330 square km), is geologically part of the Canadian Shield, which comprises some of the world's oldest rocks. Although most of the rocks are igneous and metamorphic formations of Precambrian age (i.e., older than about 540 million years), the Labrador trough, in the west, contains softer sedimentary deposits and includes some of North America's most extensive iron-ore deposits. In the far north the Torngat Mountains rise abruptly from the sea to a height of 5,420 feet (1,652 metres) at Mount Caubvick (Mount D'Iberville), on the Labrador-Quebec border. The interior is like a giant saucer dotted with lakes and dissected by rivers that break through the eastern saucer rim to discharge into the Labrador Sea. The indented coastline has countless offshore islands, fjords, and coves, exposed and barren headlands, and relatively lush river valleys.

      Most of Newfoundland and Labrador shows the effects of continental glaciation during the Pleistocene Epoch (1,800,000 to 11,500 years ago). Thus, the material that lies underneath the thin layer of today's soil is generally glacial debris or marine sediments exposed by postglacial uplift. Nevertheless, the watersheds of the larger rivers contain deeper surface deposits that support the growth of excellent forest stands, and the province has pockets of arable mineral soils that support agriculture. Interrupted drainage systems throughout the province have created extensive peat bogs.

Climate

      In general, Newfoundland and Labrador has cold but not severe winters and warm to cool summers. The mean July temperature in the province ranges from 40 to 50 °F (5 to 10 °C) in northern Labrador to 59 °F (15 °C) on the island's south coast. In the southern interior the July mean is just above 60 °F (16 °C). January mean temperatures are above 20 °F (−7 °C) in the southern portion of the island, on the coast of Labrador approximately 10 °F (−12 °C) and 0 °F (−18 °C) in the south and north, respectively, and about −15 °F (−26 °C) in interior western Labrador. Extreme low temperatures in southern Newfoundland rarely reach 0 °F, but in western Labrador readings below −40 °F (−40 °C) are not uncommon. The annual precipitation varies from 55 inches (1,400 mm) in the southern parts of the island to about 17 inches (430 mm) at Cape Chidley on the northern tip of the Labrador Peninsula. In the northern regions, as much as half of the annual precipitation occurs as snow. In the south, the snowfall usually accounts for only about one-fifth of the total precipitation.

      Midlatitude storms, moving across Canada and up the Atlantic seaboard, have a pronounced effect on Newfoundland's climate. Warm air drawn in on the southern side of the disturbances contributes to the high precipitation in the southern part of the island. Northeasterly and easterly winds prevailing in advance of each storm blow across the cold Labrador Current, keep coastal summers cool, and impede the coming of spring. Northwesterly winds, following in the wake of each storm, carry in cold Arctic air that forces temperatures even lower than the latitude and marine location would suggest. To the south the cool air of the Labrador Current mixes with the warmer air over the Gulf Stream to produce frequent dense fogs, which are most common over the Grand Banks and along the southern and southeastern coasts of Newfoundland.

Plant and animal life

      With the exception of the tundra of northern Labrador and the barren reaches of higher elevations and of some coastal regions, much of the province is forested. The principal species are conifers, of which balsam fir and black spruce are the most abundant. In most parts of the province, but particularly on the island, conifers are mixed with such deciduous species as the paper and yellow birches and a wide variety of hardwood shrubs. The best stands of forest occur in areas of deep and well-drained soils, while in less-favoured areas much of the forest growth is stunted. In others, repeated fires and subsequent erosion have created barrens that produce a great variety of small woody plants.

  moose, introduced to Newfoundland in the early 20th century, are now the most plentiful of the large wild mammals found on the island, where they outnumber the herds of woodland caribou. Labrador, which has a greater variety of wildlife, supports more caribou than moose. Other species include black and polar bears, Arctic and red foxes, beaver, lynx, and the range of small fur-bearing animals common to the northern coniferous forests and the tundra of northern Labrador. Large herds of harp and hooded seals migrate along the coasts of the province. Whales, now protected, are commonly seen throughout the summer as they feed and disport themselves in coastal waters.

 Vast colonies of seabirds, notably murres, Atlantic puffins, northern gannets, petrels, and eider ducks, inhabit the offshore islands and headlands. Several species of gulls and terns are ubiquitous, and substantial breeding populations of black ducks and Canada geese are maintained, together with lesser populations of other ducks. Migratory shorebirds and wading birds frequent the coast seasonally. Upland game birds include ptarmigan, grouse, and snipes, while such birds of prey as the osprey and bald eagle are common.

People

Population composition

      The people of Newfoundland are overwhelmingly of European (white) descent. A small population of Inuit (Eskimo) (the Arctic people of Canada known as Eskimo in Alaska) and Innu (formerly Montagnais and Naskapi; an Indian [First Nations] people) occupy several settlements in northern and central Labrador, retaining their original languages and a portion of their ancient cultures. In central and southern Labrador, there is a significant population (the Labrador Métis) derived from white-Inuit intermarriage. On the island, the indigenous Beothuk became extinct by the late 1820s. The majority of remaining Indian peoples are Mi'kmaq, who live mainly on a reserve at Conne River (Miawpukek); there are also concentrations of Mi'kmaq elsewhere in central and western Newfoundland.

      The greater part of Newfoundland and Labrador's people represent an extraordinarily homogeneous group. The vast majority of them trace their origin to the southwestern counties of England or to the southeastern region of Ireland. A small number trace their ancestry to other English and Irish counties, Scotland, Wales, the Channel Islands, France, or the Canadian mainland. The great majority of the people are English-speaking, though there is an active Francophone minority. Historically, social groups have been defined along denominational and ethnic, rather than linguistic, lines. The principal Christian denominations are Anglican, Roman Catholic, United Church of Canada, and Pentecostal.

Settlement patterns

      Residents of Newfoundland and Labrador see their province as constituting nine regions—seven on the island of Newfoundland and two in Labrador. Each is distinct in its natural settings and human imprint.

Newfoundland

Avalon Peninsula

 The most densely populated part of the island, the Avalon Peninsula on the southeastern coast contains the capital city, St. John's, the adjacent city of Mount Pearl, a number of smaller towns such as Conception Bay South, Harbour Grace, Carbonear, Trepassey, and Placentia, and a host of small villages typically located at the edge of the sea. These villages were originally settled by fishing families, who needed suitable harbours and access to wood, fresh water, some land to grow vegetables, and fishing grounds. The result—there and elsewhere in the province—was a dispersed pattern of settlement, with houses scattered around a harbour. In some cases, different ethnic or religious groups would build houses together in defined areas. Mercantile centres typically were more closely settled, with a more urban character.

      Many of the older houses have disappeared, replaced by structures with newer designs, and relatively few of the inhabitants still fish. Nevertheless, many of these locales retain much of their original character. A heritage movement, which developed in the 1970s, bolstered by tourism and a demand for second homes, has ensured that a substantial number of older buildings have survived in St. John's and elsewhere.

The east and northeast coast

      Northward from the Avalon, along the coast rimming Trinity, Bonavista, and Notre Dame bays, the landscape is softened. The headlands and islands are still barren, but in the bays and estuaries the size and variety of the forest cover attest to deeper soils. The rocky shoreline is interrupted by stretches of sandy beach, and the fishing village occasionally is replaced by a farming community. Many islands shield the mainland from the worst effects of the northeasterly winds and create hundreds of miles of virtually landlocked waters. Many old communities, such as Fogo, Bonavista, and Twillingate, developed in the more exposed locations, where the exigencies of the fishery demanded they be built. These are being outstripped in growth by the newer towns located in more-favourable settings, such as Clarenville, Lewisporte, and Springdale, which have become important distribution centres linked at one time to the railway and now to the Trans-Canada Highway.

Northern Peninsula

      The Northern Peninsula (locally called the Great Northern Peninsula) stretches northward toward the Labrador coast between Bonne Bay on the west and White Bay on the east. In the west, the Long Range Mountains, rising abruptly from a narrow coastal plain dissected by numerous fjords and rivers, offer spectacular scenic attractions. On the eastern slope of the mountains are stands of commercial forest. Settlements along the coast are somewhat more widely spaced than in other regions. The principal towns include the important fishing centre of Port au Choix and the town of Saint Anthony.

The west coast

      The west coast region stretches southward from Bonne Bay, at the base of the Northern Peninsula, to Cape Ray on Cabot Strait. The northern section is well forested, while the stretch from St. George's Bay to the Codroy Valley has some of the province's best agricultural land. The principal population centres are Corner Brook, a city originally based on a large pulp and paper complex but now more diversified, and Stephenville, which was originally developed in conjunction with a U.S. air base. The town was later converted into a centre for light industry; it also has a paper mill.

The south coast

      The most spectacularly rugged section of the island's coastline is probably the south coast, stretching from Cape Ray eastward to Fortune Bay. There the land generally rises abruptly from the sea, forming numerous embayments separated by rocky peninsulas. The rivers are short and turbulent, but their valleys are well forested. At the head of Bay d'Espoir is a major hydroelectric plant. Many small settlements that once dotted the coast have been abandoned, and the population is now centred in a few relatively large communities, such as Burgeo, Harbour Breton, and Channel-Port aux Basques, (Channel–Port aux Basques) located at the western extreme of the region.

Burin Peninsula

      Almost all settlement on the Burin Peninsula is coastal. The larger towns, Marystown, Burin, Grand Bank, and Fortune, were all major deep-sea-fishing ports and centres for the fresh-fish-processing industry. St. Lawrence once produced Canada's total supply of the mineral fluorspar, an important agent in metallurgy.

The island interior

      The interior was largely uninhabited, at least by Europeans, until the early 20th century. Railway construction and the pulp and paper industry fostered the development of several towns, including Grand Falls–Windsor (originally separate towns) and Bishop's Falls. Badger and Howley emerged as logging centres. Buchans was at one time an important mining town. The town of Gander was created by the rise in international air traffic, both civil and military, in the mid-20th century.

Labrador

      Labrador is composed of two sharply contrasting regions. The coastal region south of the Hamilton Inlet is settled with scattered fishing villages. The area north of the inlet has a handful of permanent settlements with predominantly Innu and Inuit populations. The largest town is Happy Valley–Goose Bay, which developed around a military airfield constructed during World War II. In western Labrador the twin mining towns of Labrador City and Wabush are modern and well-planned. Churchill Falls is the site of one of the world's greatest hydroelectric developments.

Demographic trends

      From the beginning of settlement, Newfoundland was a staging point for further emigration, and from the late 19th century there has been a large emigration to the United States—particularly New York state and New England—and to all parts of Canada. Within the province the trend toward urbanization was accelerated in the 1950s and '60s by a government policy of resettlement, designed to reduce the costs of services by centralizing population. Both urbanization and emigration have been further stimulated by the collapse of the cod fishery in the 1990s. The population is now predominantly urban, with about one-third living in the St. John's metropolitan area.

Economy

      Newfoundland and Labrador's economy has traditionally been based on exploiting and exporting natural resources. Historically, the fisheries (commercial fishing) were Newfoundland's chief economic asset, supplemented from the late 19th century by increasingly important mining and forestry sectors. However, in the late 20th century the provinces's fishing industry went into sharp decline, as did the other primary industries. In the early 21st century, the Newfoundland economy showed signs of recovery, thanks largely to a combination of mineral extraction and a growing tourism business.

Agriculture, forestry, and fishing

      Newfoundland and Labrador's traditional fishery based on the production of dried salt cod for markets in Europe, the West Indies, and Brazil has virtually disappeared since the 1940s. It was replaced, over time, by a technologically advanced and capital-intensive industry based on catching and processing groundfish (cod, hake, flounder, and redfish) in large plants in order to produce frozen goods for the North American market. In the second half of the 20th century, the industry was allowed to overexpand, and heavy fishing by Canadian and foreign trawlers severely depleted groundfish stocks, including cod. As a result, a moratorium was placed on cod fishing in 1992, and stricter quotas were imposed on other species. In response to this development, the industry has diversified with some success into shellfish (primarily crab and shrimp), and there has been a significant expansion in aquaculture.

      Fishing now contributes only a tiny fraction of the province's gross domestic product and a relatively small (though still significant) proportion of provincial employment. An even smaller amount is derived from harvesting harp seal pups, a practice that has been criticized by animal-rights activists.

      The lack of good soil, a small domestic market, and a relatively short growing season have militated against the development of agriculture in Newfoundland and Labrador, and most foodstuffs are imported. Though small, the sector has expanded steadily, with the main emphasis on poultry and dairy products. Vegetables and fruit are marketed locally. Berries harvested in the wild are used to makes wines and jams.

Resources and power

      Mineral resources are of great importance to the provincial economy. Newfoundland was at one time a major producer of iron and copper ore; however, the province's most important mining area is now situated in western Labrador, which possesses huge reserves of iron ore. Major deposits of nickel, copper, and cobalt were discovered at Voisey's Bay on the northern Labrador coast in the mid-1990s, and mining began about a decade later.. A number of mines and quarries on the island produce gold, silica, barite, dolomite, gypsum, dimension stone, sand, gravel, and peat. The province's forests support pulp and paper mills, as well as a sawmilling industry.

      Exploration for petroleum and natural gas began offshore in the 1960s, and there have been numerous significant discoveries on the Grand Banks and the Labrador Shelf. The Hibernia field, about 200 miles (320 km) east of St. John's, was discovered in 1979 and began production in 1997. Since then, other fields in the vicinity have been developed. There has also been increasing interest in the oil and gas potential of western Newfoundland. An oil refinery at Come By Chance in Placentia Bay supplies the U.S. market.

 The publicly owned corporation Newfoundland and Labrador Hydro controls most of the province's hydroelectric (hydroelectric power)-generating capacity, including the Churchill Falls installation in Labrador, one of the largest such facilities in the world. Most of the power generated at Churchill Falls is sold to Hydro Quebec at what are now considered bargain prices under a long-term contract. Customers on the island are supplied mainly by hydroelectric developments there (such as the one at Bay d'Espoir) through a privately owned utility.

Manufacturing

      In addition to the pulp and paper industry, there are a number of businesses producing various wood products and building and repairing ships and boats. Food and beverage manufacturing also employs a significant number of people.

Services, labour, and taxation

      The major Canadian banks have branches in the province's main towns. They are supplemented by credit unions, particularly in rural areas. Brokerage, investment, insurance, and real estate companies are similarly widespread.

      Tourism is becoming increasingly important, though the sector faces the challenges of the province's relatively remote location and the cost of traveling there. As a result, tourism does not provide work for as many people as some other parts of the service sector, which, overall, employs the greatest portion of the provincial workforce. The largest concentrations are in retailing and health care, though significant numbers are employed in education, public administration, and various professional services. Women constitute more than half of the workforce. The overall unemployment rate is significantly higher than the national average. The Newfoundland and Labrador Federation of Labour is the province's largest labour organization, but it does not include all unionized workers. The seasonality of some occupations is partially compensated for by the federal government's employment insurance plan.

      Most of the provincial government's revenue comes from local sales and income taxes; much of the rest is derived from the federal government. Health care and education absorb the largest share of expenditures, and the province carries a significant public debt.

Transportation and telecommunications

 Until the end of the 19th century, communication among the coastal settlements of both Newfoundland and Labrador was by sea, though there were roads on the Avalon Peninsula. Ferry service remains an important means of transportation in the province. Ferry lines run between the island and Labrador and between coastal settlements on the northeastern and southern coasts of Newfoundland. There is a summer ferry service that travels across the Strait of Belle Isle between Blanc Sablon, Que., and St. Barbe, Nfd. The island is also linked to mainland Canada by ferries operating between Channel-Port aux Basques and Argentia (seasonal) on the south coast, and North Sydney, N.S.

      A narrow-gauge railway was built during the 1880s and '90s from St. John's to Channel-Port aux Basques along a route that touched the major bays. The service was supplemented by coastal and bay steamers that connected settlements not served by the railway and also provided service between the island and Labrador. A regular ferry service that connected the railway to the mainland Canadian rail system in Nova Scotia began in 1898. A number of railway branchlines were built on the island between 1909 and 1914.

      The railway system on the island was shut down in 1988; the province now has only a single line, which carries freight from western Labrador to the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Elsewhere, rail has been replaced by road. A section of the Trans-Canada Highway crosses Newfoundland, generally following the route of the old rail line. Secondary roads link virtually every settlement on the island. Many Labrador communities are without road connections to their neighbours. The Trans-Labrador Highway, when completed, will connect southern, central, and western Labrador to the road network of Quebec; major portions have been opened in western and southern Labrador.

      Internal, national, and international air connections are provided by Air Canada and other carriers. The major airports at St. John's (Torbay), Gander, Deer Lake, Stephenville, Goose Bay, and Wabush are supplemented by smaller facilities at such centres as St. Anthony and Nain. Telephone service is universally available, and almost all communities have access to the Internet.

Government and society

 In most ways, administrative organization and social conditions in Newfoundland and Labrador are similar to those in other Canadian provinces.

Constitutional framework

      Under the terms of union with Canada (implemented in 1949), Newfoundland and Labrador is represented in the Canadian Parliament by six senators and seven members of the House of Commons. The provincial government, completely autonomous in those areas reserved to its jurisdiction by the Canadian constitution, consists of a lieutenant governor representing the crown and a unicameral legislature of 48 members elected by universal suffrage. The government is organized on the British parliamentary model. The Executive Council, or cabinet, is chosen from among the elected members of the party representing the majority in the House of Assembly. Between 1949 and 1972 the Liberal Party (Liberal Party of Canada) won every election, with the opposition Progressive Conservative Party (Progressive Conservative Party of Canada) unable to win more than a few electoral districts. The Conservatives finally won power in 1972, amid disillusionment with the Liberal leadership and its policy. Its resettlement of many small coastal communities and pursuit of economic development deals that were perceived by many to be unsound were especially controversial. In the election of 1988 the Liberals were returned to power with a substantial majority of electoral seats, and they maintained their dominance until the election of 2003, when the Conservatives again won a majority. The New Democratic Party (NDP) has never been a significant factor in Newfoundland and Labrador.

      Local government was slow to evolve in the province. Not until 1888 was the first municipal government elected in St. John's, and the next town council was not created until 1938. Most communities have now become incorporated as towns or as components of rural district organizations. Elected councils are empowered to levy taxes and, under the aegis of the provincial Department of Municipal Affairs and Housing, are responsible for the management of local concerns.

Health and welfare

      Assisted by funding from the federal government, the provincial government administers virtually all health services; with the exception of dentistry and ophthalmology, these are free to all residents. Nearly all members of the medical profession participate in the province's Medical Care Plan. An increasing number of privately owned agencies help in the provision of care to the aged, the chronically ill, and the mentally and physically disadvantaged, but many such services are administered or partly funded by the province.

      With its small population, huge land area, and somewhat fragile economy, Newfoundland and Labrador is not an easy province to administer. The costs of delivering medical, educational, and other services is high, as is the expense of maintaining roads and other communication networks. Taxation and the cost of living are somewhat higher, and wage and salary levels somewhat lower than in other parts of Canada. However, the expense of living in Newfoundland and Labrador is to some extent offset by relatively affordable housing, access to a largely untouched natural environment, and other quality of life factors. Yet emigration and employee relations problems, especially in the public sector, remain major issues for the province.

Education

      The educational system in Newfoundland and Labrador was, until the constitution of Canada was amended in 1997, a mixture of state and church activity. Up until then, educational services had been provided by the churches, which had been permitted to retain administrative controls even after the government assumed the major financial burden. The rights thus acquired were protected by legislation and the 1949 terms of union with Canada. The provincial Department of Education eventually became divided into five denominational divisions, although in 1969 the Department of Education was reorganized: school districts were consolidated, school boards were reduced, and denominational services were integrated. The individual denominations, however, continued to maintain their own administrative offices and were responsible for certain functions until the 1997 constitutional amendment opened the way for the provincial government to remove the churches from the public school system altogether and to exercise control of the educational system through elected, nondenominational school boards.

      Vocational, technical, and trade schools, both private and government-operated, have always been nondenominational in character. Founded as Memorial University College in 1925, the Memorial University of Newfoundland, with campuses at St. John's and Corner Brook, is the province's only university. Nondenominational and managed by an autonomous board of regents, it is now one of Canada's larger universities and boasts professional schools and research programs, some of which are directly related to the province's physical, social, and cultural environment.

Leslie Harris James Hiller

Cultural life

      The relative isolation of many of the province's small communities for much of its history helped preserve distinctive cultural characteristics. Thus, an unusual feature of the province is the local speech, which in some areas preserves much of the flavour of its West Country English origins. In other areas, such as St. John's, the dialect has marked Irish characteristics. There are many variants within these two main groups, and both have been deeply influenced by general Canadian speech patterns. Yet a unique Newfoundland accent is still evident. In much of Labrador, spoken English is influenced by aboriginal languages.

The arts

      Traditional culture was fundamentally passed down orally, and Newfoundlanders have preserved their rich heritage through collections of folk songs, folktales, and folklore. Indeed, the province has been categorized as a living archive of these genres. Alone in English-speaking Canada, Memorial University offers academic programs in folklore. It also offers degrees in theatre, fine arts, and music, reflecting the lively cultural scene that has emerged since the 1950s.

      The visual arts have flourished, and the province is home to some of Canada's most distinguished artists, including Christopher Pratt, David Blackwood, Heidi Oberheide, and Don Wright. Aboriginal artists have also made a significant mark. Newfoundland has a unique theatre tradition that grew from an explosion of amateur groups throughout the province in the 1950s. These groups typically embraced English or Irish plays, though a few groups performed a mix of original skits and recitations. It was during that period that the Newfoundland and Labrador Drama Festival was established. Drama festivals remain an important component of the province's culture. In the 1970s professional troupes, such as CODCO (Cod Company), the Mummer's Troupe, and the Newfoundland Travelling Company, emerged and began performing original works by local writers. The province is also a lively place for music of all genres, filmmaking, and literature. The creation and marketing of high-quality crafts has also increased in importance.

      Noted local playwrights have included Grace Butt, Cassie Brown, Tom Cahill, and Michael Cook. Newfoundland's literary tradition has featured native poets E.J. Pratt (Pratt, E.J.) and, more recently, Mary Dalton. Contemporary novelists such as Wayne Johnston and Lisa Moore have become increasingly well-known.

Cultural institutions

  The Provincial Museum, Art Gallery, and Archives are housed together in a large structure called The Rooms in St. John's and are maintained under the auspices of the Department of Tourism, Culture, and Recreation. Smaller museums and cultural centres are located in other towns throughout the province. The history of the province is also reflected at locations such as L'Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site, which preserves the location of an authenticated Norse village that is the earliest known European settlement in North America; it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1978. Among other important historic sites are the lighthouses and other structures in St. John's and Bonavista, the preserved 18th-century buildings in Trinity, and the cable house in Heart's Content, where the first successful transatlantic cable was laid in 1866. A Moravian mission settlement at Hopedale, on the Labrador coast, also includes some buildings from the late 18th century.

Sports and recreation

      Much of the recreational activity in Newfoundland and Labrador is related to the province's abundant natural scenery and wildlife. The hunting and fishing there are considered among the best in Canada. Hiking, backpacking, camping, biking, skiing, canoeing, and kayaking are popular activities for residents and tourists. Newfoundland contains a generous amount of parkland and preserves, including Terra Nova National Park in the eastern portion of the island and the magnificent Gros Morne National Park (a World Heritage site [1987]) in the Bonne Bay region. Torngat Mountains National Park Reserve, in far northern Labrador, was established in 2005.

Media and publishing

      In the past, St. John's was always well served by newspapers, but the score or more that appeared during the 19th century and flourished for various periods of time have now been reduced to the daily Telegram. The Western Star is published in Corner Brook, and several weeklies serve other communities and regions. Memorial University publishes a province-related general-interest cultural magazine and a scholarly journal. Radio broadcasting has been widespread since the 1930s, and the first television station was established on the island in 1955. The two Canadian television networks have stations in St. John's, and cable television is available.

      The distinctive cultures of Newfoundland and Labrador have been influenced considerably by mainstream North America since the early 20th century, especially with the advent of radio and then television. Nevertheless, provincial broadcast media have always carried a significant amount of local content, much of it of high quality, which undoubtedly has helped Newfoundlanders and Labradorians to retain their identities and strong sense of place.

History

 In about AD 1000, Norse voyagers from Greenland reached Labrador and Newfoundland and probably explored the Gulf of St. Lawrence (Saint Lawrence, Gulf of). They did not stay, however, partly because of hostile relations with the aboriginal peoples they encountered. Europeans again reached Newfoundland in 1497, when the Italian navigator Giovanni Caboto (better known as John Cabot (Cabot, John)) reached the island while sailing under the English flag. It is possible that the existence of the island and its resources had been known earlier, but Cabot's reports opened the way for the development of an international European fishery in the region. During the 16th century, French, Basque, Portuguese, and English vessels fished in Newfoundland waters as well as the Gulf of St. Lawrence, while Basque whalers developed a profitable industry in southern Labrador. By the early 17th century, France and England dominated the Newfoundland fishery and shared the island's coastline. The English fished along the “English Shore,” which ran from Bonavista Bay to Trepassey Bay at the southeastern tip of the Avalon Peninsula. The French used the rest of the coastline but concentrated their efforts on the southern coast and on the Northern Peninsula.

Early settlement

      The European presence at Newfoundland remained migratory and seasonal throughout the 16th century. In the first half of the 17th century, however, there were several English (British Empire) attempts to create formal colonies on the Avalon Peninsula. The first of these, in 1610, at Cupids on Conception Bay, was the first English settlement in what is now Canada, and it marked the beginning of a permanent English presence in Newfoundland. The colony was a business failure, however, and was abandoned in the early 1620s. Similar attempts followed, most importantly at Ferryland, where Sir George Calvert (later 1st Baron Baltimore (Baltimore, George Calvert, 1st Baron)) established the colony of Avalon in 1621. None of these initiatives was able to emulate the success of similar projects on the American mainland.

      Nonetheless, by the mid-17th century, there were between 1,000 and 2,000 planters on the English Shore who had some sort of permanent attachment to Newfoundland. These planters worked cooperatively with the migratory fishermen—e.g., protecting equipment during the winter, cutting timber, building boats, and providing hospitality. After 1860, however, the English West Country merchants, who ran the migratory fishing interest, began to argue that settlement in Newfoundland was undesirable. Because the fishery was considered to be of great importance, both in economic terms and as a training ground for mariners, the West Country lobby was successful, and the government adopted an antisettlement policy. In 1675 all settlers were ordered to leave Newfoundland. The order was never implemented, however, because the government soon realized that without a year-round English presence the island might fall completely to the French, who in 1662 had established a garrisoned colony at Plaisance (from 1713 Placentia) on the southeastern coast. By the end of the century, the British position was that Newfoundland was foremost a fishery, though settlement would be tolerated.

      English settlers suffered severe losses at the hands of the French during the warfare that lasted from 1689 to 1713. But by the Treaty of Utrecht (Utrecht, treaties of) (1713), France recognized British sovereignty over the island of Newfoundland and agreed to leave Placentia. French fishermen were allowed to continue a seasonal fishery on what became known as the “ French Shore,” situated on a stretch of the northeastern and western coasts.

British fishery to colony

      In 1763, as part of the reorganization of British North America that followed the Seven Years' War, Britain ceded to France the islands of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon, and France ceded their North American claims east of the Mississippi River. That same year the coast of Labrador was added to Newfoundland. The partitioning of the Labrador Peninsula (Labrador) became a point of debate between the Quebec government and Britain. The coast was eventually defined as running from Blanc Sablon to Cape Chidley. The interior boundary—which delineates present-day Labrador—was not set until 1927.

      The population of Newfoundland increased during the 18th century, with a substantial number of settlers coming from southeastern Ireland as well as from England. Fishing merchants did not oppose this development, since they could make money by supplying the residents with fish and goods. Beginning in 1729, the commander of the naval squadron was also appointed governor, and his officers were made magistrates. During the winter, when the squadron was absent, civil magistrates were in control. The court system became steadily more formalized over the course of the century. A supreme court was created in 1792.

      The Anglo-French wars between 1793 and 1815 (a component of the Napoleonic Wars (French revolutionary and Napoleonic wars)) mark a watershed in Newfoundland history. The English migratory fishery went into a terminal decline, while the fishery carried on by a growing number of residents expanded significantly. In addition, the catching of seals developed into an important economic activity. By the early 19th century, a colonial society had taken root on the island, and demands were being made for constitutional and legal reform. In 1824–25 Newfoundland was granted official colonial status, with a civil governor. Representative government was established in 1832 with the election of the first House of Assembly. Responsible government, in which the executive administration was drawn from and answerable to elected legislators, was instituted in 1855.

      Nine years later, amid a severe economic depression, islanders began to debate whether to join the Canadian confederation that was taking shape on the mainland. The issue was hotly contested and extremely divisive. In the end, the confederates were overwhelmingly defeated in the 1869 general election.

      It was quickly realized that for Newfoundland to remain as an independent political unit, it needed to diversify economically. Therefore, the major initiative of the late 19th century was the construction of a trans-island railway that, it was hoped, would stimulate the development of land-based industries. The results were limited. Mining did become increasingly important, however, and by the turn of the 20th century, a forest industry was well established. A newsprint mill opened at Grand Falls in 1909. Fishing, however, remained the primary economic pursuit until nearly the end of the century.

      Given the size of its population and economy, Newfoundland made a significant contribution to the Allied effort during World War I (1914–18) by raising a regiment that served in Europe with distinction. The financial cost, however, was considerable, and the colony entered the economically difficult postwar period with a large public debt. Though there were promising developments in the mining and newsprint industries in the 1920s, the local economy remained vulnerable, and the government faced collapse with the onset of the Great Depression. The possibility of a default on debt payments prompted British intervention. In 1934 local responsible government was suspended and replaced by an appointed Commission of Government, which reported to the Dominions Office in London.

Toward confederation

       World War II created an economic boom in Newfoundland and Labrador. There was a great influx of Canadian and U.S. military personnel, and large bases were constructed at St. John's, Argentia, Gander, Stephenville, and Goose Bay. Smaller installations sprang up in many other locations.

  With the end of the war, discussion began over Newfoundland's constitutional future. Instead of restoring local responsible government, the British ordained the election of a National Convention to recommend suitable forms of government to be placed on a referendum ballot. After intense and emotional debate, the convention rejected confederation with Canada as an option and recommended a choice between the existing Commission of Government or responsible government. In spite of this, the British government added confederation as a choice in a referendum held on June 3, 1948. The result was inconclusive. A second referendum, on July 22 of that year, gave the confederates a majority of 52.3 percent. Newfoundland became a Canadian province on March 31, 1949.

      With the assistance of the federal government, the province's infrastructure was transformed over the course of the second half of the 20th century, and both living standards and educational levels markedly improved. The search for economic stability and prosperity has continued since 1949, but successive governments have failed to find a lasting solution. With the fisheries severely depleted and forest resources also diminished, the province's hopes for the future lie with oil and natural-gas extraction on the Grand Banks and off Labrador, the mineral and hydroelectric resources in Labrador, computer-based businesses in Newfoundland, and tourism. Tourism has been actively encouraged since the 1990s.

      The increased development of resources in northern and western Labrador brought dramatic and not always positive changes to its people, stimulating political activism among the Inuit and Innu groups, who sought out formal recognition of their land claims within the province. A treaty with the Inuit created the territory of Nunatsiavut in northern Labrador in 2005, and negotiations have continued with the Innu and, on the island, with the Mi'kmaq.

James Hiller

Additional Reading

The major compendium of information on the province is the five-volume Encyclopedia of Newfoundland and Labrador (1981–94).James A. Tuck, Newfoundland and Labrador Prehistory (1976), is both readable and informative on the origins of the province's aboriginal peoples. Ingeborg Marshall, A History and Ethnography of the Beothuk (1996); José Mailhot, The People of Sheshatshit: In the Land of the Innu (1997; originally published in French, 1993); and Ralph T. Pastore, The Newfoundland Micmacs: A History of Their Traditional Life (1978), provide perspectives on the experiences of specific aboriginal groups. For a convenient introduction to the history of Labrador, see Lynne D. Fitzhugh, The Labradorians: Voices from the Land of Cain (1999); and David William Zimmerly, Cain's Land Revisited: Culture Change in Central Labrador, 1775–1972 (1975).General histories include Patrick O'Flaherty, Old Newfoundland: A History to 1843 (1999); and Frederick W. Rowe, A History of Newfoundland and Labrador (1980). Also useful are C. Grant Head, Eighteenth Century Newfoundland: A Geographer's Perspective (1976); S.J.R. Noel, Politics in Newfoundland (1971); and two essay collections edited by James Hiller and Peter Neary, Newfoundland in the Nineteenth and Twentieth Centuries: Essays in Interpretation (1980); and Twentieth-Century Newfoundland: Explorations (1994).Patrick O'Flaherty, The Rock Observed: Studies in the Literature of Newfoundland (1979), is a lively survey of that subject.James Hiller

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