Lewis, Edna

▪ American author and chef

in full  Edna Regina Lewis 

born April 13, 1916, Freetown, Va., U.S.

died Feb. 13, 2006, Decatur, Ga.

      African American author and chef, renowned for her traditional Southern cooking that emphasized fresh and locally grown foods and later in life for her recipes.

      Having encountered racial prejudices after moving to New York City in the 1940s, Lewis worked in a laundry and as a seamstress before John Nicholson, an acquaintance who had dined at her home, opened Café Nicholson in 1949 and persuaded her to cook there. Her authentic Southern cuisine became a hit, but her husband did not approve of the bourgeois character of the café and prevailed upon her to leave in 1954. It was not until the mid-1970s, while recovering from a broken leg, that Lewis first wrote down her recipes and launched a career as an author. Based on her widespread recognition after the publication of The Edna Lewis Cookbook (1972), she again entered the restaurant business, this time as a cook at Gage & Tollner in Brooklyn. Other cookbooks followed, including The Taste of Country Cooking (1976, reissued 2006), In Pursuit of Flavor (1988; with Mary Goodbody), and The Gift of Southern Cooking (2003; with Scott Peacock). The documentary Fried Chicken and Sweet Potato Pie (2006) is a celebration of her life and influence.

* * *