Miyake, Issey

▪ 2007

      In 2006 Issey Miyake became the first fashion designer to receive the Kyoto Prize in Arts and Philosophy for lifetime achievement, awarded by the Inamori Foundation in Japan. At the November awards ceremony, he accepted a diploma, a 20-karat-gold prize medal, and ¥50 million (about $446,000). Miyake was cited for having forged a unique fashion signature that seamlessly combined Eastern and Western sartorial concepts. “Mr. Miyake studied and incorporated the folding concepts of origami and kimonos into his designs,” noted the foundation. The organization singled out as seminal “PLEATS PLEASE,” the clothing line Miyake developed in 1993, which “allows unrestricted body movement while enabling the fabric to maintain its form,” and “A-POC” (“A Piece of Cloth”), which was made from a single thread with the aid of an industrial knitting or weaving machine programmed by a computer.

      Miyake had begun experimenting on A-POC more than 10 years earlier with textile expert Dai Fujiwara before launching it commercially in 1999. He sold it simply as a long tube of jersey, and it was then up to the customer to cut and shape it. In 2000 Miyake teamed up with Naoki Takizawa in a creative partnership. Insisting that A-POC was an ensemble piece, he refused to imprint his name on that collection. Explaining A-POC in the Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion, Yuniya Kawamura wrote: “[Miyake's] objective was to minimize waste by using all leftover material. These garments allow the buyer to size and cut out a small hat, gloves, socks, a skirt or a dress.”

      Kazumaru Miyake was born on April 22, 1938, in Hiroshima, Japan. He studied graphic design at Tokyo's Tama Art University, and after graduation he moved in 1965 to Paris, where he enrolled at the renowned tailoring and dressmaking school École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. He began his career in 1966, working behind the scenes for four years in ateliers operated by a trio of 20th-century fashion legends—French couturiers Guy Laroche and Hubert de Givenchy as well as the meticulous American designer Geoffrey Beene. In 1973, three years after he established a Tokyo studio, Miyake displayed his own independent collection in a Paris group fashion show and developed the layered and wrapped look that became his trademark.

      Soon the New York department store Bloomingdale's devoted a section to selling Miyake's “East meets West” look—mostly T-shirts dyed with Japanese tattoo designs as well as coats featuring the sashiko technique—a Japanese embroidery that strengthens fabric and was typically incorporated into labourers' clothing. Miyake became an internationally recognized name in the 1980s together with Japanese designers Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto, who presented their avant-garde creations alongside his fresh, boldly coloured work during the Paris ready-to-wear collections. Miyake admitted that “there was a bit of a shock effect, but it probably helped the Europeans wake up to a new value.” In 2005 he was the recipient of a Praemium Imperiale for outstanding achievement in the arts.

Bronwyn Cosgrave

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▪ Japanese fashion designer

original name  Miyake Kazumaru 

born April 22, 1938, Hiroshima, Japan

      Japanese fashion designer best known for combining Eastern and Western elements in his work.

      Miyake studied graphic design at Tokyo's Tama Art University, and after graduation he moved in 1965 to Paris, where he enrolled at the renowned tailoring and dressmaking school École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. He began his career in 1966, working behind the scenes for four years in ateliers operated by a trio of 20th-century fashion legends—French couturiers Guy Laroche (Laroche, Guy) and Hubert de Givenchy (Givenchy, Hubert de) as well as the meticulous American designer Geoffrey Beene. In 1973, three years after he established a Tokyo studio, Miyake displayed his own independent collection in a Paris group fashion show and developed the layered and wrapped look that became his trademark.

      Soon the New York department store Bloomingdale's devoted a section to selling Miyake's “East meets West” look—mostly T-shirts dyed with Japanese tattoo designs as well as coats featuring the sashiko technique, a Japanese embroidery that strengthens fabric and was typically incorporated into labourers' clothing. Miyake became an internationally recognized name in the 1980s together with Japanese designers Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto, who presented their avant-garde creations alongside his fresh, boldly coloured work during the Paris ready-to-wear collections.

      In 2005 the Japan Arts Association awarded Miyake a Praemium Imperiale for outstanding achievement in the arts. In 2006 he became the first fashion designer to receive the Kyoto Prize in Arts and Philosophy for lifetime achievement, awarded by the Inamori Foundation in Japan; the prize included a diploma, a 20-karat-gold prize medal, and 50 million yen (about $446,000). The organization singled out as seminal the clothing line Miyake developed in 1993 called Pleats Please, which “allows unrestricted body movement while enabling the fabric to maintain its form,” and A-POC (“A Piece of Cloth”), which was made from a single thread with the aid of an industrial knitting or weaving machine programmed by a computer. Miyake had begun experimenting on A-POC more than 10 years earlier with textile expert Dai Fujiwara before launching it commercially in 1999. Insisting that A-POC was an ensemble piece, he refused to imprint his name on that collection. He sold it simply as a long tube of jersey, and it was then up to the customer to cut and shape it.

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