/teks"tuyl, -til/, n.
1. any cloth or goods produced by weaving, knitting, or felting.
2. a material, as a fiber or yarn, used in or suitable for weaving: Glass can be used as a textile.
3. woven or capable of being woven: textile fabrics.
4. of or pertaining to weaving.
5. of or pertaining to textiles or the production of textiles: the textile industry.
[1520-30; < L textilis woven, textile (n. use of neut.) woven fabric, equiv. to text(us), ptp. of texere to weave + -ilis, -ile -ILE]

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Any filament, fibre, or yarn that can be made into fabric or cloth, and the resulting material itself.

The word originally referred only to woven fabrics but now includes knitted, bonded, felted, and tufted fabrics as well. The basic raw materials used in textile production are fibres, either obtained from natural sources (e.g., wool) or produced from chemical substances (e.g., nylon and polyester). Textiles are used for wearing apparel, household linens and bedding, upholstery, draperies and curtains, wall coverings, rugs and carpets, and bookbindings, in addition to being used widely in industry.

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      any filament, fibre, or yarn that can be made into fabric or cloth, and the resulting material itself.

      The term is derived from the Latin textilis and the French texere, meaning “to weave,” and it originally referred only to woven fabrics. It has, however, come to include fabrics produced by other methods. Thus, threads, cords, ropes, braids, lace, embroidery, nets, and fabrics made by weaving, knitting, bonding, felting, or tufting are textiles. Some definitions of the term textile would also include those products obtained by the papermaking principle that have many of the properties associated with conventional fabrics.

      This article surveys the development of textiles and the history and development of the textile industry. (industry) It treats in some detail the processes involved in the conversion of fibres to yarn, fabric construction, finishing operations applied to textiles, uses of textile materials, and the relationship between the producer and the consumer. Information about specific natural and synthetic textile fibres such as wool, mohair, nylon, and polyester are treated in separate articles.

Development of textiles and the textile industry

From prehistoric times to the 19th century
Early textile production
      Textile structures derive from two sources, ancient handicrafts and modern scientific invention. The earliest were nets (netting), produced from one thread and employing a single repeated movement to form loops, and basketry, the interlacing of flexible reeds, cane, or other suitable materials. The production of net, also called limited thread work, has been practiced by many peoples, particularly in Africa and Peru. Examples of prehistoric textiles are extremely rare because of the perishability of fabrics. The earliest evidence of weaving, closely related to basketry, dates from Neolithic cultures of about 5000 BC. Weaving apparently preceded spinning of yarn; woven fabrics probably originated from basket weaving. Cotton, silk, wool, and flax fibres were used as textile materials in ancient Egypt; cotton was used in India by 3000 BC; and silk production is mentioned in Chinese chronicles dating to about the same period. The history of spinning technology will be touched on below in the section Production of yarn: Spinning (textile) and that of weaving technology in the section Production of fabric. (textile)

Early fabrics
      Many fabrics produced by the simple early weaving procedures are of striking beauty and sophistication. Design and art forms are of great interest, and the range of patterns and colours is wide, with patterns produced in different parts of the world showing distinctive local features.

      Yarns and cloth were dyed and printed from very early times. Specimens of dyed fabrics have been found in Roman ruins of the 2nd century BC; tie-and-dye effects decorated the silks of China in the T'ang dynasty (AD 618–907); and there is evidence of production of printed textiles in India during the 4th century BC. Textiles found in Egypt also indicate a highly developed weaving craft by the 4th century AD, with many tapestries made from linen and wool. Persian textiles of very ancient origin include materials ranging from simple fabrics to luxurious carpets and tapestries.

Textiles in the Middle Ages
      By the early Middle Ages certain Turkish tribes were skilled in the manufacture of carpets, felted cloths, towels, and rugs. In Mughal India (16th–18th century), and perhaps earlier, the fine muslins produced at Dacca in Bengal were sometimes printed or painted. Despite the Muslim prohibition against representation of living things, richly patterned fabrics were made in Islāmic lands.

      In Sicily, after the Arab conquest in AD 827, beautiful fabrics were produced in the palace workshops at Palermo. In about 1130, skilled weavers who came to Palermo from Greece and Turkey produced elaborate fabrics of silk interlaced with gold.

      Following the conquest of Sicily in 1266 by the French, the weavers fled to Italy; many settled in Lucca, which soon became well-known for silk fabrics with patterns employing imaginative floral forms. In 1315, the Florentines captured Lucca, taking the Sicilian weavers to Florence, a centre for fine woven woollens from about 1100 AD, and also believed to be producing velvet at this time. A high degree of artistic and technical skill was developed, with 16,000 workers employed in the silk industry and 30,000 in the wool industry at the close of the 15th century. By the middle of the 16th century a prosperous industry in velvets and brocades was also established in Genoa and Venice.

Textile industries of France and Germany
      French (France) manufacture of woven silks began in 1480, and in 1520 Francis I brought Italian and Flemish weavers to Fontainebleau to produce tapestry under the direction of the King's weaver. Others were brought to weave silk in Lyon, eventually the centre of European silk manufacture. Until 1589, most of the elaborate fabrics in France were of Italian origin, but in that year Henry IV founded the royal carpet and tapestry factory at Savonnières. Flemish weavers were brought to France to produce tapestries in workshops set up by Jean Gobelin in the 16th century. By the time of Louis XIII (1610–43), French patterned fabrics showed a distinctive style based on symmetrical ornamental forms, lacelike in effect, perhaps derived from the highly regarded early Italian laces. In 1662, the French government, under Louis XIV, purchased the Gobelin factory in Paris. Rouen also became known for its textiles, with designs influenced by the work of Rouen potters. French textiles continued to advance in style and technique, and under Louis XVI (1774–93) design was refined, with classical elements intermingled with the earlier floral patterns. The outbreak of the French Revolution in the 1790s interrupted the work of the weavers of Lyon, but the industry soon recovered.

       Flanders and its neighbour Artois were early centres of production for luxurious textiles: Arras for silks and velvets; Ghent, Ypres, and Courtrai for linen damasks (damask); and Arras and Brussels for tapestries. The damasks, characterized by heraldic motifs, were especially well known, and linen damasks of very high quality were produced in the 18th century. In Germany, Cologne was an important medieval cloth centre, renowned for orphrey webs (narrow cloths of gold bearing richly embroidered woven inscriptions and figures of saints).

Textile manufacture in England
      English textiles of the 13th and 14th centuries were mainly of linen and wool, and the trade was influenced by Flemish fullers (finishers) and dyers. Silk was being woven in London and Norwich in 1455, and in 1564 Queen Elizabeth I granted a charter to Dutch and Flemish settlers in Norwich for production of damasks and flowered silks. The revocation of the Edict of Nantes (Nantes, Edict of) in 1685, renewing persecution of French Protestants, caused many weavers to move to England, settling in Norwich, Braintree, and London. The most important group of refugees, some 3,500, lived in Spitalfields, a London settlement that became the chief centre for fine silk damasks and brocades. These weavers produced silk fabrics of high quality and were known for their subtle use of fancy weaves and textures. Norwich was also famous for figured shawls of silk or wool.

Textiles in the New World
      Weaving and dyeing were established in the New World before arrival of the Europeans. Weaving was in an advanced state in North and South America during prehistoric times; both the Peruvians and Mexicans had fine woven fabrics. The Peruvian fabrics were much like those of ancient Egypt, although contact between the two civilizations is generally considered unlikely. Inca cotton and wool fabrics were brilliantly coloured, with patterns based on geometric and conventionalized human forms. Fabrics, especially blankets, made by the Navajos of Arizona and New Mexico had exceptionally close texture and brilliant colour.

      English settlers established a cloth mill in Massachusetts in 1638. There Yorkshire weavers produced heavy cotton fustians; cotton-twill jeans; and linsey-woolsey, a coarse, loosely woven fabric of linen and wool. Fulling mills were operating in Massachusetts by 1654, freeing the community from dependence on England for fine linen and worsted. The industry developed steadily, and received a major impetus from Eli Whitney's invention of the cotton gin in 1793.

Effects of the Industrial Revolution
      The textile industry, although highly developed as a craft, remained essentially a cottage industry until the 18th century. The advantages of cooperative operations were realized much earlier, and numbers of workers occasionally operated together under one roof, with one such group operating a mill in Zurich in 1568 and another in Derby, England, in 1717. Factory organization became most advanced in the north of England, and the Industrial Revolution, at its height between 1760 and 1815, greatly accelerated the growth of the mill system.

      John Kay (Kay, John)'s flying shuttle, invented in 1733, increased the speed of the weaving operation, and its success created pressure for more rapid spinning of yarn to feed the faster looms. Mechanical spinners produced in 1769 and 1779 by Sir Richard Arkwright (Arkwright, Sir Richard) and Samuel Crompton (Crompton, Samuel) encouraged development of mechanized processes of carding and combing wool for the spinning machines. Soon after the turn of the century the first power loom was developed. The replacement of water power by steam power increased the speed of power-driven machinery, and the factory system became firmly established, first in England, later in Europe and the United States.

From the 19th century to the present
      Throughout the 19th century a succession of improvements in textile machinery steadily increased the volume of production, lowering prices of finished cloth and garments. The trend continued in the 20th century, with emphasis on fully automatic or nearly fully automatic systems of machinery.

Application of scientific methods
      The mechanical developments in textile production associated with the Industrial Revolution resulted from the application of comparatively simple engineering and physical principles. Further progress required a clear understanding of the scientific principles of textile processing. Lack of basic information on the structure and properties of fibres limited understanding, delaying a scientific approach to textile processing. In the late 19th century, however, increasing knowledge of the physical and chemical properties of fibres led to application of scientific methods (modernization). Applications of chemistry originally attracted the greatest attention, largely because of the production of new compounds and the realization that fibres could be considered the result of chemical activity. In the 20th century, with the development of electronics and computers, new physical and engineering concepts were employed in textile research and development. An outstanding application of science to the textile industry was the development of man-made fibres (fibre, man-made), providing new textile materials and leading to the application of new processes to traditional fibres, thereby providing faster processing methods and introducing a wider variety of new techniques. The man-made fibre industry originally employed textile expertise developed through years of experience with natural fibres, but the excellent results obtained by the scientific approach encouraged increased industrial use of applied science, and information was soon accumulated on the behaviour of fibres under a variety of conditions.

The modern textile industry
      Both industrialized and developing countries now have modern installations capable of highly efficient fabric production. In addition to mechanical improvements in yarn and fabric manufacture, there have been rapid advances in development of new fibres, processes to improve textile characteristics, and testing methods allowing greater quality control.

      The modern textile industry is still closely related to the apparel industry, but production of fabrics for industrial use has gained in importance. The resulting wide range of end uses demands a high degree of specialization. In the most technically advanced communities, the industry employs technicians, engineers, and artists; and a high degree of consumer orientation leads to emphasis on marketing operations. Some manufacturing operations, usually serving specialized or local markets and dependent on a limited number of firms for product consumption, still employ many hand operations, however.

Modern fabrics
      The many types of modern textile fabrics, produced from both traditional and man-made materials, are often classified according to structure. Fabrics made by interlacing include woven and knitted types, lace, nets, and braid; fabrics produced from fibre masses include bonded types, wool felt, and needle-woven types; composite fabrics are produced by uniting layers of various types. Conventional weaving and knitting methods are currently the major textile manufacturing techniques, but newer construction methods are achieving acceptance, and may replace certain long-established products as costs of conventional textiles continue to rise and rapid technological advances continually develop new materials.

      Textile fabrics are judged by many criteria. Flexibility and sufficient strength for the intended use are generally major requirements, and industrial fabrics must meet rigid specifications of width, weight per unit area, weave and yarn structure, strength and elongation, acidity or alkalinity, thickness, and porosity. In apparel fabrics design and colour are major considerations, and certain physical properties may be of secondary importance. In addition, the various tactile properties of a fabric, described as its “hand,” “handle,” or “feel,” influence consumer acceptance.

      The textile industry increasingly employs research and development in the area of quality control. Medieval craft guilds were concerned with maintaining high quality standards, and later textile mills established rigid systems of inspection, realizing that a reputation for supplying fault-free goods encouraged repeat orders. Modern quality control has been assisted by development of techniques and machines for assessing fibre, yarn, and fabric properties; by the introduction of legislation regarding misrepresentation in many industrialized countries; and by the establishment of rigid specifications by a growing number of buyers. Specifications have been established for the purchase of industrial fabrics, for textiles used by the military and other branches of governments, and for similar purchasing methods adopted by some retailers and other large buyers. In consumer-oriented areas, the public is becoming aware of product testing and is beginning to require proof that products have met certain test standards.

      Many modern textile organizations test product quality at every major stage of processing. Yarns are tested for uniform thickness and other characteristics; fabric pieces are checked for defects; and the fastness of finishes and colours to various conditions is determined. Although it would not be feasible to test each yarn or fabric piece produced, statistical techniques allow maintenance of quality within previously specified limits, and the introduction of automatic testing devices has greatly reduced testing time and cost. Methods for assessing such properties as dimensions, strength, and porosity have been established, and their validity is generally accepted within the industry. Standards are available for colour fastness, although such important properties as water-repellency, resistance to creasing, and flame resistance are presently more difficult to define, and various organizations have adopted their own test procedures. It is important, for example, that a fabric described as flame resistant should conform to some specification in which the meaning of flame resistance is clearly defined.

      Some manufacturers attach trademarks and quality labels to tested goods, and licensed trademarks are often associated with particular processes for which the manufacturer has been granted a license. The terms of the license require the manufacturer to ensure that his products meet the standards laid down by the proprietors of the particular process.

Production of yarn
       yarn is a strand composed of fibres, filaments (individual fibres of extreme length), or other materials, either natural or man-made, suitable for use in the construction of interlaced fabrics, such as woven or knitted types. The strand may consist of a number of fibres twisted together; a number of filaments grouped together but not twisted; a number of filaments twisted together; a single filament, called a monofilament, either with or without twist; or one or more strips made by dividing a sheet of material, such as paper or metal foil, and either twisted or untwisted. The properties of the yarn employed greatly influence the appearance, texture, and performance of the completed fabric.

Textile fibres
Raw materials
      Fibres are units of matter having length at least 100 times their diameter or width. Fibres suitable for textile use possess adequate length, fineness, strength, and flexibility for yarn formation and fabric construction, and for withstanding the intended use of the completed fabric. Other properties affecting textile fibre performance include elasticity, crimp (waviness), moisture absorption, reaction to heat and sunlight, reaction to the various chemicals applied during processing and in the dry cleaning or laundering of the completed fabric, and resistance to insects and microorganisms. The wide variation of such properties among textile fibres determines their suitability for various uses.

      The first fibres available for textile use were obtained from plant and animal sources. Over a long period of experimentation with the many natural fibres (natural fibre) available, cotton, wool, jute, flax, and silk have become recognized as the most satisfactory. The commercial development of man-made fibres began late in the 19th century, experienced much growth during the 1940s, expanded rapidly after World War II, and in the 1970s was still the subject of extensive research and development. This group includes regenerated fibres, such as rayon, made from fibre-forming materials already existing in nature and manipulated into fibrous form, and synthetic fibres (synthetic fibre), with the fibre-forming substance produced from chemicals derived from such sources as coal and oil, and then made into such fibres as nylon and polyester.

Factors affecting cost
      The cost of fibres is determined by availability, the kind and amount of processing required, and their versatility. Natural fibres usually require extensive land area for their production, are affected by climatic conditions, and must frequently be transported long distances to the point of manufacture. Because quantity and quality are not easily controlled, prices tend to fluctuate. Research has been directed toward improving various properties during the manufacturing processes.

      Man-made fibres can usually be produced near the point of use; their production does not require large land areas; they can be manufactured quickly, in desired quantities, with specific built-in properties; and they require little advance preparation for conversion to yarn. Initial costs are high because of the production equipment employed, but prices tend to be stable and may be reduced as production expands. Research has been directed toward improving the properties of man-made fibres and developing types suitable for specific purposes.

      Although the major natural fibres continue to dominate the textile industry, production and consumption of synthetic fibres are growing.

Conversion to yarn
      Because filaments, such as silk and the man-made fibres, have extreme length, they can be made into yarn without the spinning operation necessary for the shorter staple fibres. When grouped together in a loose, continuous rope without twist, man-made filaments are called tow. Filaments may be loosely twisted together to form yarns of a specified thickness. Staple fibres, such as cotton, only a few inches long, must be tightly twisted together to produce satisfactory length.

      Filament yarns are usually thin, smooth, and lustrous; staple yarns are usually thicker, fibrous, and without lustre. Man-made filaments cut to a predetermined short length become staple fibres, usually described by combining the fibre name with the term staple, as in rayon staple.

Treatment of raw fibre
      In modern mills, most fibre-processing operations are performed by mechanical means. Such natural fibres as cotton, arriving in bales, and wool, arriving as fleece, are treated at the mill to remove various foreign materials, such as twigs and burrs. Wool must also be treated to remove suint, or wool grease; silk must be treated to remove sericin, a gum from the cocoon, and the very short silk fibres, or waste silk. Raw linen, the fibre of flax, is separated from most impurities before delivery. Man-made fibres, since they are produced by factory operations, rarely contain foreign materials. Blending, frequently employed for natural fibres, involves mixing fibres taken from different lots to obtain uniform length, diameter, density, and moisture content, thus assuring production of a uniform yarn. Blending is also employed when different fibres are combined to produce yarn. Man-made fibres, which can be cut into uniform tow, do not require blending unless they are to be mixed with other fibres.

      Cotton, wool, waste silk, and man-made staple are subjected to carding, a process of separating individual fibres and causing many of them to lie parallel, and also removing most of the remaining impurities. Carding produces a thin sheet of uniform thickness that is then condensed to form a thick, continuous, untwisted strand called sliver.

      When very fine yarns are desired, carding is followed by combing, a process that removes short fibres, leaving a sliver composed entirely of long fibres, all laid parallel, and both smoother and more lustrous than uncombed types. Slivers may be loosely twisted together, forming roving. Hackling, a process applied to straighten and separate flax, is similar to combing.

Early spinning methods
      Spinning is the process of drawing out and twisting fibres to join them firmly together in a continuous thread or yarn. Spinning is an indispensable preliminary to weaving cloth from those fibres that do not have extreme length. From early times through the Middle Ages spinning was accomplished with the use of two implements, the distaff and the spindle. The distaff was a stick on which the mass of fibres was held. The drawn-out length of fibre was fastened to the weighted spindle, which hung free. The spinner whirled the spindle, causing it to twist the fibre as it was drawn from the distaff. As a length was drawn out the operation was halted, the new yarn wound on the spindle and secured by a notch, and the operation repeated. The spinning wheel, invented in India and introduced to Europe in the Middle Ages, mechanized the process; the spinning of the wheel supplanted the whirl of the weighted spindle, and after each operation the spinner wound the new yarn on the spindle. This was accomplished simply and speedily by holding the yarn outstretched with the left hand and feeding it as the wheel was spun in the reverse direction.

      An important advantage conferred by the spinning wheel was the fact that it tended to add more twist at thin places in the forming yarn and to draw out the thicker places, giving a more uniform yarn.

      The spinning wheel continued in use into the 19th century, receiving an important improvement in the 16th century in the form of the Saxony wheel, which made possible continuous spinning of coarse wool and cotton yarn. With this improvement in speed, three to five spinning wheels could supply one loom with yarn, but Kay's flying shuttle (described below under Woven fabrics (textile)) greatly increased the output of the loom and created a demand for spinning machinery. James Hargreaves' (Hargreaves, James) spinning jenny (patented 1770) operated a number of spindles simultaneously, but was suitable only for making yarn used as filling. Sir Richard Arkwright (Arkwright, Sir Richard), making use of earlier inventions, produced a better machine, capable of making stronger yarn than Hargreaves' jenny. Still a third machine, Samuel Crompton's (Crompton, Samuel) “mule” (1779), vastly increased productivity, making it possible for a single operator to work more than 1,000 spindles simultaneously; and it was capable of spinning fine as well as coarse yarn. Several further modifications were introduced in Britain and the United States, but the Crompton mule effectively put yarn spinning on a mass production basis.

Modern spinning
      In modern spinning, slivers or rovings are fed into machines with rollers that draw out the strands, making them longer and thinner, and spindles that insert the amount of twist necessary to hold the fibres together. Tightness of the twist determines the strength of the yarn, although too much twist may eventually cause weakening and breakage. When the spirals formed by twisted yarns are similar in slope to the central portion of the letter Z, the yarns are described as Z-twist; when the spirals conform in direction to the central portion of the letter S, the yarns are described as S-twist. Crepe yarns, producing a crinkled effect in fabrics, are made with a very high degree of twist, producing a kink. Shadow effects can be produced in finished fabrics by the use of yarns combining opposing twists, producing differing light reflections. The spinning process is completed by winding the yarn on spools or bobbins.

Reeling and throwing
      Reeling is the process of unwinding raw silk filament from the cocoon directly onto a holder. When several filament strands, either raw silk or man-made, are combined and twisted together, producing yarn of a specified thickness, the process is called throwing.

Yarn packages
      The intended use of a yarn usually determines the packaging method employed. Bobbins are wood, cardboard, or plastic cores on which yarns are wound as they are spun, and have holes in their centres allowing them to fit on spindles or other holding devices. Spools are cylindrical, with end flanges. Cones, having a conical-shaped core, produce a package of conical shape; tubes, with cylindrical-shaped cores, produce cylindrical packages. Cheeses are cylindrical yarn packages wound on a tube, and, unlike most other packages, they have greater diameter than height. Skeins are coils of yarn wound with no supporting core.

      Pirns are large barrel-shaped packages used to hold the weft, or filling, yarn supply for the shuttle in weaving; quills are small tapered tubes holding the weft yarns for weaving. Beams are wood or metal cylinders, about five feet long and up to 10 inches in diameter, on which yarns used as warp in weaving are wound.

Types of yarn
Classification based on number of strands
      Yarns can be described as single, or one-ply; ply, plied, or folded; or as cord, including cable and hawser types.

Single yarns
 Single, or one-ply, yarns are single strands composed of fibres held together by at least a small amount of twist; or of filaments grouped together either with or without twist; or of narrow strips of material; or of single man-made filaments extruded in sufficient thickness for use alone as yarn (monofilaments). Single yarns of the spun type, composed of many short fibres, require twist to hold them together and may be made with either S-twist or Z-twist (see Figure 1—> ). Single yarns are used to make the greatest variety of fabrics.

Ply yarns
      Ply, plied, or folded, yarns are composed of two or more single yarns twisted together. Two-ply yarn, for example, is composed of two single strands; three-ply yarn is composed of three single strands. In making ply yarns from spun strands, the individual strands are usually each twisted in one direction and are then combined and twisted in the opposite direction. When both the single strands and the final ply yarns are twisted in the same direction, the fibre is firmer, producing harder texture and reducing flexibility. Ply yarns provide strength for heavy industrial fabrics and are also used for delicate-looking sheer fabrics.

Cord yarns
 Cord yarns are produced by twisting ply yarns together, with the final twist usually applied in the opposite direction of the ply twist (see Figure 2—> ). Cable cords may follow an SZS form, with S-twisted singles made into Z-twisted plies that are then combined with an S-twist, or may follow a ZSZ form. Hawser cord may follow an SSZ or a ZZS pattern. Cord yarns may be used as rope or twine, may be made into very heavy industrial fabrics, or may be composed of extremely fine fibres that are made up into sheer dress fabrics.

Novelty yarns
      Novelty yarns include a wide variety of yarns made with such special effects as slubs, produced by intentionally including small lumps in the yarn structure, and man-made yarns with varying thickness introduced during production. Natural fibres (natural fibre), including some linens, wools to be woven into tweed, and the uneven filaments of some types of silk cloth are allowed to retain their normal irregularities, producing the characteristic uneven surface of the finished fabric. Man-made fibres, which can be modified during production, are especially adaptable for special effects such as crimping and texturizing.

Textured yarns
 Texturizing processes were originally applied to man-made fibres to reduce such characteristics as transparency, slipperiness, and the possibility of pilling (formation of small fibre tangles on a fabric surface). Texturizing processes make yarns more opaque, improve appearance and texture, and increase warmth and absorbency. Textured yarns are man-made continuous filaments, modified to impart special texture and appearance (see Figure 3—> ). In the production of abraded yarns, the surfaces are roughened or cut at various intervals and given added twist, producing a hairy effect.

      Bulking creates air spaces in the yarns, imparting absorbency and improving ventilation. Bulk is frequently introduced by crimping, imparting waviness similar to the natural crimp of wool fibre; by curling, producing curls or loops at various intervals; or by coiling, imparting stretch. Such changes are usually set by heat application, although chemical treatments are sometimes employed. In the early 1970s bulky yarns were most frequently produced by the “false twist” method, a continuous process in which the filament yarn is twisted and set, and then untwisted and heated again to either stabilize or destroy the twist. The “stuffing box” method is often applied to nylon, a process in which the filament yarn is compressed in a heated tube, imparting a zigzag crimp, then slowly withdrawn. In the knit-de-knit process, a synthetic yarn is knitted, heat is applied to set the loops formed by knitting, and the yarn is then unravelled and lightly twisted, thus producing the desired texture in the completed fabric.

      Bulk may be introduced chemically by combining filaments of both high and low shrinkage potential in the same yarn, then subjecting the yarn to washing or steaming, causing the high shrinkage filaments to react, producing a bulked yarn without stretch. A yarn may be air bulked by enclosing it in a chamber where it is subjected to a high-pressure jet of air, blowing the individual filaments into random loops that separate, increasing the bulk of the material.

Stretch yarns
      Stretch yarns are frequently continuous-filament, man-made yarns that are very tightly twisted, heat-set, then untwisted, producing a spiral crimp giving a springy character. Although bulk is imparted in the process, a very high amount of twist is required to produce yarn that has not only bulk, but also stretch.

      Spandex is the generic term for a highly elastic synthetic fibre composed mainly of segmented polyurethane. Uncovered fibres may be used alone to produce fabrics, but they impart a rubbery feel. For this reason, elastomeric fibre is frequently used as the core of a yarn and is covered with a nonstretch fibre of either natural or man-made origin. Although stretch may be imparted to natural fibres, other properties may be impaired by the process, and the use of an elastic yarn for the core eliminates the need to process the covering fibre.

Metallic yarns (metallic fibre)
      Metallic yarns are usually made from strips of a synthetic film, such as polyester, coated with metallic particles. In another method, aluminum foil strips are sandwiched between layers of film. Metallic yarns may also be made by twisting a strip of metal around a natural or man-made (fibre, man-made) core yarn, producing a metal surface.

      For additional information about the production, characteristics, and uses of modern man-made novelty yarns, see man-made fibres (fibre, man-made).

Classification based on use

Fabric construction yarns
      Almost any textile yarn can be used to produce such interlaced fabrics as woven and knitted types. In weaving, the warp, or lengthwise, yarns are subjected to greater stress and are usually stronger, smoother, and more even and have tighter twist than the weft (filling), or crosswise, yarns. A sizing (stiffening) material such as starch may be applied to warp yarns, increasing their strength to withstand the stresses of fabric construction operations. Weft yarns, subjected to little stress during weaving, may be quite fragile.

      Warp and weft threads used in the same fabric may be of differing diameter, producing such special effects as ribbing or cording in the fabric. Special effects may also be obtained by combining warp and weft yarns of fibre from differing origin, or with different degrees of twist, or by introducing metallic threads into weaves composed of other fibres.

      Yarns for machine knitting are usually loosely twisted because softness is desired in knit fabrics.

Yarns used in handwork
      Yarns used in hand knitting are generally of two or more ply. They include such types as fingering yarns, usually of two or three plys, light to medium in weight and with even diameter, used for various types of apparel; Germantown yarns, soft and thick, usually four-ply and of medium weight, frequently used for sweaters and blankets; Shetland yarns, fine, soft, fluffy, and lightweight, frequently two-ply, used for infants' and children's sweaters and for shawls; worsted knitting yarn, highly twisted and heavy, differing from worsted fabric by being soft instead of crisp, and suitable for sweaters; and zephyr yarns, either all wool, or wool blended with other fibres, very fine and soft, with low twist, and used for lightweight garments.

      Embroidery floss, used in hand embroidery, generally has low twist, is of the ply or cord type, and is made of such smooth filaments as silk and rayon. Yarn used for crocheting is frequently a loose cotton cord type; and darning yarns are usually loosely spun.

Sewing thread (thread)
      Sewing threads are tightly twisted ply yarns made with strands having equally balanced twist, producing a circular cross section. Thread for use in commercial or home sewing machines and for hand sewing should allow easy movement when tension is applied and ease in needle threading; should be smooth, to resist friction during sewing; should have sufficient elasticity to avoid the breaking of stitches or puckering of seams; and should have sufficient strength to hold seams during laundering or dry cleaning and in use.

      Threads for special uses may require appropriate treatment. Garments made of water-repellent fabrics, for example, may be sewn with thread that has also been made water-repellent. Thread is usually subjected to special treatment after spinning, and is then wound on spools. Thread size is frequently indicated on the spool end, and systems for indicating degree of fineness vary according to the textile measurement system used locally.

      Silk thread has great elasticity and strength combined with fine diameter. It can be permanently stretched in sewing, and is suitable for silks and wools. Buttonhole twist is a strong, lustrous silk about three times the diameter of normal sewing silk, and is used for hand-worked buttonholes, for sewing on buttons, and for various decorative effects.

      Cotton thread is compatible with fabric made from yarn of plant origin, such as cotton and linen, and for rayon (made from a plant substance), because it has similar shrinkage characteristics. It is not suitable for most synthetics (synthetic fibre), which do not shrink, or for fabrics treated to reduce shrinkage. Its low stretch is useful for woven fabrics, but not for knits, which require more stretch.

       nylon thread is strong, with great stretch and recovery, does not shrink, and is suitable for sheers and for very stretchy knits. polyester thread has similar characteristics, and is appropriate for various synthetic and preshrunk fabrics, and for knits made of synthetic yarns.

Measurement systems
      Yarn measurements are expressed as yarn number, count, or size, and describe the relationship of length and weight (or approximate diameter). Because methods of measurement were developed in various areas of the world, there has been a lack of uniformity in such systems.

Indirect systems
      Indirect measuring systems are those employing higher number to describe finer yarns, and are based on length per unit weight. Most countries measure yarns made from staple fibres according to the weight of a length of yarn. If one pound is used as a standard unit, for example, a very fine yarn will have to be much longer than a coarser yarn to weigh a pound, so higher counts indicate finer yarns. The size number is an indication of the length of yarn needed to reach a weight of one pound.

      In the United States, the system is based on the number of hanks per pound, with a hank of 840 yards for cotton and spun silk, 300 yards (a lea) for linen, 256 yards for woollen yarns, and 560 yards for worsted yarns. A widely used continental system is based on the number of hanks of 1,000 metres (one kilometre) required to reach a weight of one kilogram.

Denier system
      The denier system is a direct-management type, employed internationally to measure the size of silk and man-made filaments and yarns, and derived from an earlier system for measuring silk filaments (based on the weight in drams of 1,000 yards). Denier number indicates the weight in grams of 9,000 metres of filament or filament yarn. For example, if 9,000 metres of a yarn weigh 15 grams, it is a 15-denier yarn; if 9,000 metres of a yarn weigh 100 grams, it is a 100-denier yarn, and much coarser than the 15-denier yarn. Thus a smaller number indicates a finer yarn. This system is not convenient for measurement of staple yarns because their greater weight would require the use of very large numbers.

Tex system
      The tex system, originally devised in 1873, is a universal method developed for the measurement of staple fibre yarns and is also applicable to the measurement of filament yarns (yarn). It is based on the weight in grams of one kilometre (3,300 feet) of yarn.

Production of fabric
      Fabric construction involves the conversion of yarns, and sometimes fibres, into a fabric having characteristics determined by the materials and methods employed. Most fabrics are presently produced by some method of interlacing, such as weaving or knitting. Weaving, currently the major method of fabric production, includes the basic weaves, plain or tabby, twill, and satin, and the fancy weaves, including pile, Jacquard, dobby, and gauze. Knitted fabrics are rapidly increasing in importance and include weft types and the warp types, raschel and tricot. Other interlaced fabrics include net, lace, and braid. Nonwoven fabrics are gaining importance and include materials produced by felting and bonding. Laminating processes are also increasing in importance, and fairly recent developments include needle weaving and the sewing-knitting process.

Woven fabrics
      Woven fabrics are made of yarns interlaced in a regular order called a binding system, or weave. Weaving is the process of combining warp and weft components to make a woven structure. The components need neither be parallel to each other nor cross each other at right angles, but most woven structures are composed of two sets of components, both flexible and crossing at right angles. Weaving is differentiated from warp and weft knitting, braiding, and net making in that these latter processes make use of only one set of elements. In addition, there are geometrical differences, one of the most significant being the small angles through which the components of a woven structure are, in general, bent, in contrast with the components of other structures.

      Weaving is a widely used constructional method because it is cheap, basically simple, and adaptable. Woven fabrics have valuable characteristics resulting partly from the geometrical conformation of their components and partly from the fact that the components are held in position not by rigid bonding but by friction set up at the areas where they make contact. Woven fabrics are used in household, apparel, and industrial textiles.

      Textile designers can produce a very large variety of cloths by their selection of yarns, finishing processes, and binding systems. Yarns vary in thickness, smoothness, fibre content, twist, and colour, all of which have a profound influence on the finished cloth. Finishing processes range from such simple treatment as brushing up the nap on a woven fabric to such a complicated chemical process as that employed to change opaque cotton fabric to transparent, permanently stiffened organdy.

      The binding system, or weave, however, is the basic factor in determining the character of a woven fabric. The three basic systems are plain or tabby, twill, and satin. In complex binding systems, the basic weaves are combined or enriched by hand manipulation or mechanical loom attachments; these include multiple-plane, pile, inlaid, and gauze weaves. Regardless of the binding system, other devices—manipulation of warp spacing, beating in, or tension—can be used to alter the appearance of any weave, to make it looser or more compact, to make it more or less regular.

      As musical notation conveys a composer's ideas, so weave drafts or point paper plans communicate a textile designer's directions for constructing woven fabrics. The draft is a plan on graph paper showing at least one repeat or weave unit of the fabric to be woven. This information enables the weaver or mill specialist to plot the drawing in of the warp, tie up of harnesses to shedding mechanism, and shedding order.

The weaving process
      Woven cloth is normally much longer in one direction than the other. The lengthwise threads are called the warp; the other threads, which are combined with the warp and lie widthwise, are called the weft (synonyms are “filling,” “woof,” and “shoot,” or “shute”). An individual thread from the warp, of indefinite length, is called an end; each individual length of weft, extending from one edge of the cloth to the other, is called a pick, or shot. Consecutive picks are usually consecutive lengths of one piece of weft yarn that is repeatedly folded back on itself.

  In all methods of weaving cloth (except the rudimentary form of darning), before a length of weft is inserted in the warp, the warp is separated, over a short length extending from the cloth already formed, into two sheets. The process is called shedding and the space between the sheets the shed (Figure 4A—>). A pick of weft is then laid between the two sheets of warp, in the operation known as picking (Figure 4B—>). A new shed is then formed in accordance with the desired weave structure, with some or all of the ends in each sheet moving over to the position previously occupied by the other sheet. In this way the weft is clasped between two layers of warp.

 Since it is not possible to lay the weft close to the junction of the warp and the cloth already woven, a further operation called beating in, or beating up (Figure 4C—>), is necessary to push the pick to the desired distance away from the last one inserted previously. Although beating in usually takes place while the shed is changing, it is normally completed before the new shed is fully formed.

      The sequence of primary operations in one weaving cycle is thus shedding, picking, and beating in. At the end of the cycle the geometrical relation of the pick to the warp is the same as it would have been if the pick had been threaded through the spaces between alternate ends, first from one side of the cloth and then from the other, as in darning. This is the reason the weaving process is considered an interlacing method.

Early development of the loom
      The word loom (from Middle English lome, “tool”) is applied to any set of devices permitting a warp to be tensioned and a shed to be formed. Looms exist in great variety, from the bundles of cords and rods of primitive peoples to enormous machines of steel and cast iron.

 Except on certain experimental looms, the warp shed is formed with the aid of heddles (or healds). Usually one heddle is provided for each end, or multiple end, of warp thread, but on some primitive looms simple cloths are produced with heddles provided only for each alternate end. A heddle (Figure 5A—>) consists of a short length of cord, wire, or flat steel strip, supported (in its operative position) roughly perpendicular to the unseparated sheet of warp threads and provided, in modern looms, with an eyelet at its midpoint, through which the warp end is threaded. By pulling one end of the heddle or the other, the warp end can be deflected to one side or the other of the main sheet of ends. The frame holding the heddles is called a harness.

 In most looms, the weft is supplied from a shuttle, (Figure 5B—>), a hollow projectile inside which a weft package is mounted in such a way that the weft can be freely unwound through an eyelet leading from the inside to the outside. The shuttle enters the shed and traverses the warp, leaving a trail of weft behind.

 Beating in is generally effected by means of a grating of uniformly spaced fine parallel wires, originally made of natural reeds and thus called a reed (Figure 5C—>), which, mounted at right angles to the warp, oscillates between the heddles and the junction of the warp and the cloth. The ends pass, one or more at a time, through the spaces between consecutive reed wires, so that the reed, in addition to beating in, controls the spacing of the ends in the cloth.

      The earliest evidence of the use of the loom (4400 BC) is a representation of a horizontal two-bar (or two-beamed—i.e., warp beam and cloth beam) loom pictured on a pottery dish found at al-Badārī, Egypt. The warp is stretched between two bars or beams, pegged to the ground at each of the four corners. Lease (or laze) rods are used to separate the warp yarns, forming a shed and aiding the hands in keeping the yarns separated and in order. Lease rods were found in some form on every later type of improved loom, and their use at this very early date indicates that the loom already had been in use long enough to have reached a stage of improvement by addition of devices to aid the hands.

      Before lease rods were added, it would have been necessary for the fingers to separate each odd from each even warp thread to create the shed through which the weft yarn was passed. A third rod also seen in this early drawing may be a heddle rod. If so, this loom represents a still more advanced stage of development.

      The heddle rod rests on top of the warps. To produce a plain weave, alternate warp yarns are tied to the rod, and, when it is raised, the shed is formed quickly and accurately. Some authorities consider the heddle to be the most important step in the evolution of the loom. A shed stick is ordinarily used with the heddle, forming the second, or countershed, opening for the return of the weft.

      In addition to the horizontal two-bar loom, there are two other primitive varieties, the warp-weighted and the vertical two-bar loom. The warp-weighted loom consists of a crossbar supported by two vertical posts. The warp threads hang from the crossbar and are held taut by weights of clay, ceramic, or chalk tied to their free ends. Loom weights have been found at archaeological sites dating from 3000 BC, but this type of loom may have originated even earlier. The earliest picture of a vertical two-bar loom is from the Egyptian 18th dynasty (1567–1320 BC). It coincides with the appearance of more intricate textile patterns, the earliest known tapestries (datable between 1483 and 1411 BC) having been found in the tomb of Thutmose IV at Thebes. (Even today the vertical loom is preferred for tapestry weaving.) In the vertical two-bar loom the ends of the warp yarns are attached to a second crossbar, thus combining features of both the horizontal two-bar and the warp-weighted looms.

      The heddle rods and shed sticks are used in a similar way on all three types.

      Counterparts of these very early looms have been used through the ages in many cultures. The Navajo Indians (Navajo), probably the best known of the American Indian weavers, have used the simple two-bar vertical loom for several centuries to produce their beautiful rugs and blankets. A form of the horizontal two-bar loom was the back-strap loom, in which one bar was tied to a tree or other stationary device, the second being attached to the weaver's waist by a strap. The weaver could control the tension of the warp yarns by applying pressure as necessary. The back-strap loom was used in pre-Columbian Peru, in other cultures of Central and South America, in Asia, and elsewhere.

Horizontal frame looms
      By about 2500 BC a more advanced loom was apparently evolving in East Asia. Fragments of silk fabrics found adhering to bronzes of the Shang (or Yin) period (18th–12th centuries) in China show traces of a twill damask pattern, suggesting an advanced weaving knowledge, since such fabrics could not practicably be woven on the looms described above. These fabrics were probably produced on a horizontal frame loom with treadles. The logical connecting link between the horizontal two-bar and the horizontal frame loom with treadles would have been a loom with a heddle rod that was controlled by one foot, for which no early illustrations have been found.

      The earliest European pictorial record of the horizontal frame loom with a treadle dates from the 13th century, when it appears in a highly developed form, almost certainly introduced from the East. This two-bar loom was mounted in a frame; to this was connected a treadle operated by the feet, moving the heddles, an improvement of the heddle rod or cord controls now mounted between bars and called a shaft. The advantages of this type of loom were many. First, in the two-bar loom, though more than two heddle rods could be used, the number of groupings of warp threads was limited. Although highly complex patterns could be woven, it was not practical to do so in producing any but very small quantities of cloth. The shaft loom allowed as many as 24 shafts to be set up easily, enabling the weaver to produce comparatively intricate patterns. Second, the weaver's sword or comb formerly used to beat the weft into place was replaced by the batten, supported in a heavy wooden frame from the main frame of the loom; its weight and free-swinging motion improved the beating-in action and made it easier. Third, use of the foot treadle freed both hands to throw the shuttle and swing the batten. The loom remained virtually unchanged for many centuries thereafter.

      The shaft loom was adequate for plain and for simply patterned fabrics, but a more complex loom was needed for the weaving of intricately figured fabrics, which might require 100 or more shafts. This kind of weaving was accomplished on the drawloom. Its origin is unknown, but it probably was first used in East Asia for silk weaving and was introduced into the silk-working centres of Italy during the Middle Ages. The drawloom had two devices for shedding: in addition to the shafts, which the weaver operated by treadles, cords were also used to raise the warp threads, gathered into groups as required by the pattern. The cords were worked by an operator (called a drawboy) seated on top of the loom.

      The drawloom was improved in Italy and France in the early 17th century by the addition of a type of mechanical drawboy, allowing the assistant to stand on the floor at the side of the loom and increasing the control of the cords. The continued inconvenience of employing an assistant, however, who might also make errors, led to a search for an automatic mechanism that would perform all the work of the drawboy. Most of the later developments in automatic mechanisms to control the shedding operation originated in France, which had become one of the leading countries in the weaving of figured silks.

      In 1725 Basile Bouchon added to the mechanical drawboy a mechanism that selected the cords to be drawn to form the pattern. Selection was controlled by a roll of paper, perforated according to the pattern, which passed around a cylinder. The cylinder was pushed toward the selecting box and met with needles carrying the warp-controlling cords; the needles that met unperforated paper slid along, and the others passed through the holes and remained stationary. The selected cords were drawn down by a foot-operated treadle.

      The mechanical drawboy made the proper selection of warp threads, eliminating errors, but still required an operator. The mechanism was improved in 1728 by increasing the number of needles and using a rectangular perforated card for each individual shedding motion, the cards being strung together in an endless chain. In 1745 Jacques de Vaucanson (Vaucanson, Jacques de) constructed a loom incorporating a number of improvements. He mounted the selecting box above the loom, where it acted directly on hooks fastened to the cords that controlled the warp yarns. The hooks passed through needles and were raised by a strong metal bar. The needles were selected by perforated cards passing around a sliding cylinder, without the aid of a second operator or assistant. The cylinder was very complex, and the mechanism is not known to have been adopted, but it served as the foundation for the successful Jacquard attachment.

The Jacquard attachment
 The French inventor Joseph-Marie Jacquard (Jacquard, Joseph-Marie), commissioned to overhaul Vaucanson's loom, did so without the directions, which were missing. In 1801, at the Paris Industrial Exhibition, he demonstrated an improved drawloom. In 1804–05 he introduced the invention that ever since has caused the loom to which it is attached to be called the Jacquard loom (see photograph—>).

      The Jacquard attachment is an automatic, selective shedding device, mounted on top of the loom and operated by a treadle controlled by the weaver. As in the drawloom, every warp yarn runs through a loop in a controlling cord, held taut by a weight. Each cord is suspended from a wire (“hook”) that is bent at the bottom to hold the cord and bent at the top in order to hook around the blades or bars of the griff, the lifting mechanism. To allow only those warp threads that are needed to form the pattern to be raised, some hooks must be dislodged from the rising griff. This is accomplished by horizontally placed needles connected to the hooks. As the perforated pattern card moves into place on the cylinder (which is, in fact, a quadrangular block), the needles pass through the holes in the card, and the warps are raised; where there are no holes, the needles are pushed back (by a spring action on the opposite end of each), pulling the hooks away from the rising griff bar, and the warps are not raised.

      Each card represents one throw of the shuttle, and the pattern is transferred to the cards from the designer's weave draft. Although each Jacquard attachment is limited in the number of hooks it can control and, therefore, in the size of the repeat pattern, by adding several Jacquard attachments to one loom, the weaver not only can produce intricately figured fabrics but also can weave pictures of considerable size.

The flying shuttle
      The first decisive step toward automation of the loom was the invention of the flying shuttle patented in 1733 by the Englishman John Kay (Kay, John). Kay was a weaver of broadloom fabrics, which because of their width required two weavers to sit side by side, one throwing the shuttle from the right to the centre, the other reaching between the warps and sending it on its way to the left and then returning it to the centre. The stopping of the shuttle and the reaching between the warps caused imperfections in the cloth. Kay devised a mechanical attachment controlled by a cord jerked by the weaver that sent the shuttle flying through the shed. Jerking the cord in the opposite direction sent the shuttle on its return trip. Using the flying shuttle, one weaver could weave fabrics of any width more quickly than two could before. A more important virtue of Kay's invention, however, lay in its adaptability to automatic weaving.

Power-driven looms
      The first power-driven machine for weaving fabric-width goods, patented in 1785 by Edmund Cartwright (Cartwright, Edmund), an English clergyman, was inadequate because it considered only three motions: shedding, picking, and winding the woven cloth onto the cloth beam. Cartwright's second patent (1786) proved too ambitious, but his concept of a weaving machine became the basis for the successful power loom.

      One of the great obstacles to the success of the power loom was the necessity to stop the loom frequently in order to dress (i.e., apply sizing to) the warp, an operation that, like many others, had been done in proportionately reasonable time when the weaving was done by hand. With the power loom a second man had to be employed continuously to do this work, so there was no saving of expense or time. In the early 19th century a dressing machine was developed that prepared the warp after it had been wound onto the warp beam and as it was passed to the cloth beam. Although later superseded by an improved sizing apparatus, this device made the power loom a practical tool.

      Advances made by William Horrocks of Scotland between 1803 and 1813 included an improvement in the method of taking up the cloth (i.e., winding the woven fabric onto the cloth beam) and making a more compact machine of iron, requiring little space as compared with wooden handlooms.

      Francis Cabot Lowell, of Boston, experimented with the power loom, adding improvements to increase the weaving speed, and also improved the dressing machine.

      A valuable improvement was that of the let-off and take-up motions, to maintain uniform warp tension automatically. The principle of holding at the beat (i.e., not permitting the warp to be let off until the pick was beaten into place) first applied by Erastus Brigham Bigelow (Bigelow, Erastus Brigham) in the carpet loom, was successfully applied to all kinds of weaving. Another Bigelow invention, applicable to power looms in general, although first used on a carpet loom, was the friction-brake stop mechanism, allowing the loom to be stopped without a shock.

      These developments were primarily concerned with the power loom used for weaving plain goods. William Crompton, an English machinist working in the machine shop attached to a cotton factory in Massachusetts, undertook the development of a loom that could weave fancy goods, patented in both the U.S. and England in 1837. The loom was later much improved by his son George Crompton. Such 19th-century inventions made possible the production of textile goods for every use in great volume and variety, and at low cost.

Modern looms
      Modern looms still weave by repeating in sequence the operations of shedding, picking, and beating in, but within that framework there has been considerable development during the 20th century. Several new types of loom have come into industrial use, whereas older types have been refined and their scope extended. Two main influences have been the rising cost of labour and the increasing use of man-made, continuous-filament yarns. The first has led to an increase in automatic control, in automatic handling of yarn packages, and in the use of larger packages; the second, to greater precision and finish in loom construction, because deficiency in these qualities is readily reflected in the quality of the cloth made from these yarns.

 Modern looms can be grouped into two classes according to whether they produce cloth in plane or tubular form (see Figure 6—>). Looms of the first kind, comprising all but a few, are called flat looms; the others are described as circular. Since the majority are flat looms, the adjective is used only when a distinction has to be drawn. Flat looms fall into two categories: those that employ a shuttle and those that draw the weft from a stationary supply, usually called shuttleless looms. (This term is not entirely satisfactory, as some primitive looms make no use of a shuttle, merely passing through the shed a stick with weft wound on it.) Shuttle looms fall into two groups according to whether the shuttle is replenished by hand or automatically. The second kind is often described as an automatic loom, but, except for shuttle replenishment, it is no more automatic in its operation than the hand-replenished or so-called nonautomatic loom, which, like all modern looms, is power-operated by electric motor. With both types of loom the actual weaving operation is entirely automatic and is performed in exactly the same manner.

      Hand-replenished, or nonautomatic, looms are used only where particular circumstances—of yarns, fabrics, or use—make automatically replenished looms either technically unsuitable or uneconomic. Basically they differ little from the power looms of the latter half of the 19th century. They do not run appreciably faster but are better engineered, making use, for example, of machine-cut instead of cast gear wheels. Often there is no superstructure, which makes for cleanliness and improved illumination; frequently rigid heddle connectors are employed, leading to precise and stable setting of the shed; and usually the overpick mechanism has been replaced by the cleaner and safer underpick.

      Automatically replenished flat, or automatic, looms are the most important class of modern loom, available for a very wide range of fabrics. In virtually all such looms, the shuttle is replenished by automatically replacing the exhausted bobbin with a full one. In principle they are thus the same as the automatic looms introduced at the end of the 19th century. Since that time, automatic shuttle-changing looms have also been introduced but have largely become obsolete, because bobbin-changing looms have been developed to a point where they can deal with most of the yarns for which it was once thought necessary to use shuttle-changing looms.

      Apart from the general engineering refinements, automatic looms have advanced mainly in respect of the weft supply. Alternatives to the hand-replenished bobbin now exist in the form of the automatic bobbin loader, the loom being supplied with boxes of pirned (reeled) weft; and the automatic loom winder, the loom being fed with large cones of yarn, which is wound onto pirns at the loom. These alternatives are technically feasible and economic only with certain yarns. Therefore, all three types of weft supply continue to be used. An alternative to the rotary battery, when weft of more than one colour is used, is a series of vertical stacks.

      The principle of shuttle replenishment is the same for all three systems. When the shuttle is stationary in the shuttle box, and the bar carrying the reed is farthest forward, a feeler enters the shuttle and senses whether the weft is on the point of exhaustion. Feelers may be mechanical or electrical, relying respectively on the change in friction or the change in electrical resistance brought about by the absence of weft. Alternatively, with delicate wefts, an optical feeler may be used that depends for its action on the change in the amount of light reflected when the bare pirn is revealed.

      When the feeler has sensed that the bobbin is nearly empty, mechanical or electrical signals are transmitted to the transfer mechanism that, when the shuttle is appropriately positioned and momentarily at rest, both as regards warp-way and weft-way motion, hammers a new bobbin into position, simultaneously ejecting the empty one through the open base of the shuttle. The loom continues to run at its normal speed throughout.

      In the course of this operation, there are created unwanted lengths of weft extending from the nearer selvage. These, if not controlled and disposed of, may find their way into the cloth and appear as defects. Modern looms supplement the earlier mechanical methods by pneumatic suction, with the result that the most delicate fabrics can be woven on automatic bobbin-changing looms without any loss of quality. To make certain of removal of the remnant of weft on the old bobbin, extending to the eye of the shuttle, a cutter moves forward into the shuttle box and cuts the weft close to the eye just before the bobbin is ejected.

      High speed, often combined with the use of large and heavy shuttles, means that these modern looms are noisier than ever. The noise level in a typical textile mill is above the level at which deafness occurs following prolonged exposure.

      Shuttleless looms are of three kinds, of which the first predominates: dummy shuttle, rapier, and fluid jet. The dummy-shuttle type, the most successful of the shuttleless looms, makes use of a dummy shuttle, a projectile that contains no weft but that passes through the shed in the manner of a shuttle and leaves a trail of yarn behind it.

      The rapier (rapier loom) type conveys a pick of weft from a stationary package through the shed by means of either a single rapier or a pair of rapiers. Rapiers are either rigid rods or flexible steel tapes, which are straight when in the shed but on withdrawal are wound onto a wheel, in order to save floor space. Rapier looms are, on the whole, simpler and more versatile than dummy-shuttle looms, but they have failed to achieve such high rates of weft insertion, the maximum being not more than 400 yards (365 metres) per minute. They differ in respect of the number of rapiers employed and the type of selvage provided; some of them operate by gripping the free end of the weft and conveying that through the shed rather than by starting with a loop. Fluid-jet looms, most recently developed of the shuttleless types, are produced and used on a much smaller scale than the two other types described above. They are of two kinds, one employing a jet of air, the other a water jet, to propel a measured length of weft through the shed. The significance of this development is that for the first time nothing solid is passed into the shed other than the weft, which eliminates the difficulties normally associated with checking and warp protection, and reduces the noise to an acceptable level.

      In addition to those looms that have established themselves industrially, there are looms still in the experimental stage. Loom development is always slow: some of the looms just gaining favour had their origins in inventions made 50 or even 100 years earlier. The most intense activity is in the field of shuttleless looms, because these offer the greatest prospect of achieving increased rates of weft insertion and of avoiding the drawbacks of noise, danger, vibration, high power consumption, and wear attendant on the use of a shuttle. The ultimate in direct projection is a method, still experimental, in which the weft is projected longitudinally at high speed and traverses the warp under its own momentum, nothing entering the shed but the pick of weft. The name inertial has been given to this method. Another experimental loom employs multiple rapiers for weft insertion and, in addition, eliminates the heddles and the reed.

Basic weaves
 The basic weaves include plain (or tabby), twills, and satins (see Figure 7—>).

      Plain, or tabby, weave, the simplest and most common of all weaves, requires only two harnessses and has two warp and weft yarns in each weave unit. To produce it, the warp yarns are held parallel under tension while a crosswise weft yarn isshot over and under alternate warps across the width of the web. The weave unit is completed at the end of the second row, when the weft has been inserted over and under the opposite set of warps, thus locking the previous weft in place. Fabric length is increased with the insertion of each succeeding weft yarn. When warp and weft yarns are approximately equal in size and quantity, the finished fabric is balanced and potentially stronger than cloth made of the same kind and number of warp and weft yarns in any other basic weave. Tabby woven with different-sized warp and weft yarns results in such fabrics as taffeta and poplin, in which many fine warps are interlaced with proportionately fewer thick weft yarns to form cloths with crosswise ridges or ribs.

      The term extended tabby describes any weave in which two or more warps or wefts, or both, are interlaced as a unit. The group includes fabrics with basketry effects and fabrics with ribs formed by groups of warps or wefts in each shed.

      Tapestry weave is a tabby in which a variety of coloured weft yarns is interlaced with the warp to form patterns. It is usually an unbalanced weave, with wefts completely covering a proportionately low number of warps. These cloths are sturdy and compact. Although they are flat and generally do not drape well, they have been used for centuries to make ceremonial and decorative dress and costumes.

      Twill weave is distinguished by diagonal lines. The simplest twill is that created by the weft crossing over two warp yarns, then under one, the sequence being repeated in each succeeding shot (pick), but stepped over, one warp either to the left or right. Twills with more warps than wefts floating on the fabric's face are called warp faced; those with wefts predominating, weft faced. The angle of the twill can also vary.

      Twills can be varied by changing the relative number of warps and wefts in each repeat (2:1, 2:3, 3:1, 6:2, etc.); by stepping the repeat in one direction; by breaking the direction of the diagonals formed by the twill at regular intervals; by reversing the direction of the diagonal at regular intervals to form chevrons or lozenges; or by combining several twills or modifying them to create a pattern.

      Twills drape better than plain weaves with the same yarn count because twills have fewer interlacings. Twill weaves have been used throughout history in many weights and textures, from wool serges mentioned in medieval French manuscripts to English diapered (diamond patterned) table linens, patterned bed coverlets, and Indian shawls.

      Although satin-weave drafts superficially resemble those of twills, satin weave does not have the regular step in each successive weft that is characteristic of twills. Thus, there is no strong diagonal line, and the fabric is smooth faced, with an unbroken surface made up of long floating warp yarns. A true satin must have at least five warp and weft yarns in each complete weave repeat and thus requires at least five harnesses. Most satin fabrics are made of smooth, lightly twisted yarns that heighten the effect of light unbroken by visible crosswise bindings. The limited number of interlacings allows the weaver to use a proportionately large number of warp yarns and thus produce a heavy textured cloth that can be arranged in smooth, shadowed folds. Satins, having long floats, are susceptible to the wear caused by rubbing and snagging and are, therefore, generally regarded as luxury fabrics.

      Among the variations of satin weave are damask and sateen, a weft-faced satin. damask is the most important variation of basic satin weave. Classic damask is a patterned, solid-coloured fabric with figures in warp-faced satin and background in weft-faced satin weave. The pattern is created by the difference in light reflection between the warp-faced and weft-faced areas. Silk damasks probably originated in China and came to Europe through Italy, the centre of European silk manufacture between the 13th and 17th centuries. During this period drawloom weavers from the Netherlands and Belgium also developed the art of linen damask weaving. Pictorial linen damasks, unlike most silk damasks of the time, often consisted of a single large repeat, picturing biblical scenes, contemporary events, or the arms of nobles and kings.

Complex weaves
      Complex weaves include multiple plane, pile, inlaid, Jacquard, dobby, and gauze (or leno) weaves.

Multiple plain weave
      Reversible double-woven cloth is produced by multiple plain weaving. It is woven in two layers, which may be completely independent, may be joined at one or both selvages, may be held together along the edges of a pattern, or may be united by a separate binding weft. Though often tabby weave is employed on both surfaces, any of the basic weaves may be used, depending on the intended use of the fabric.

      Double-woven cloths have been used for clothing, but, though warm, they tend to be heavy and to drape poorly. They are most often used as bedcovers or wall hangings. German 18th-century Beiderwand is an example of antique double-woven cloth consisting of two layers of tabby weave joined only along the edges of the pattern. A dark-coloured pattern in one layer is set against the light-coloured ground of the other layer; the pattern is seen in negative or the reverse side of the cloth.

      Nonreversible cloth with two or more sets of warp and sometimes of weft can also be produced. These cloths have an intricately patterned face, and all warps and wefts that do not appear on the face are carried along and bound into the web on the reverse side. This class includes important historic textiles, such as early Persian and Byzantine figured fabrics, as well as more recent Jacquard-woven imitation tapestries and a wide range of imitation brocaded fabrics.

Pile weave (pile)
      Pile weaves have a ground fabric plus an extra set of yarns woven or tied into the ground and projecting from it as cut ends or loops. A great range of textures is included in this binding system, from terry pile towelling and corduroy to silk velvets and Oriental rugs.

      In warp-pile fabrics the pile is formed by an extra set of warp yarns. To create such a fabric, first one set (sheet) of ground warps is raised, and the weft makes its first interlacing with the ground warp. Next, pile warps are raised, and a rod is inserted through the entire width of the web. The remaining ground warps are raised to form the third shed; then the ground weft is shot across again. This sequence is repeated several times; then the rods are slipped out, leaving a warp pile. To form cut-pile velvet, a knife on the end of the rod cuts the pile warps it passes, creating two fine rows of cut pile. Although the system has many technical variations, the same basic process can be applied to most warp-pile weaving.

      If the pile is not cut when the rod is removed, a loop pile fabric results. In weaving terry pile fabrics, the ground warp is under tension, and the pile warp stays slack. When wefts are beaten in, the slack yarns are pushed into loops on both sides of the cloth.

      To make velvets by double-cloth construction, two layers of cloth are woven simultaneously face-to-face, with long pile warp yarns connecting the two layers. After the cloth is woven, a knife slices the two layers apart.

       corduroy and velveteen are weft-pile constructions. Weft yarns having long floats are inserted between ground-weave picks. The floats are slit longitudinally after the fabric is completed, thus forming a ribbed surface of cut pile. In manufacture of velveteen the floats are formed over the whole surface of the fabric and cut evenly to imitate velvet.

      Hand-knotted Oriental and Scandinavian rugs (rug and carpet) are constructed on a tabby-weave ground, with each row of knots followed by tightly beaten-in wefts. The pile of fine Oriental rugs may contain 160 knots per inch, thus completely obscuring the knots in the rug's foundation.

Inlaid weave
      In all of the fabrics of this class, designs are created by inserting pattern warp or weft yarns between ground warps or wefts.

      Brocaded fabric (brocade) has a pattern of coloured or metallic threads, or both, set in low relief against the ground weave. The ground weave can be any basic weave, since the brocaded pattern is merely inserted between ground wefts and is bound by ground warps. Until the advent of the Jacquard mechanism in the early 19th century, brocaded fabrics were woven by drawloom weavers who inserted the pattern wefts by hand. These weft yarns were wound on small brocading shuttles that travelled across the width of each pattern repeat, a separate shuttle being used for each colour in the repeat. Generally, these extra wefts were found only in the area in which the pattern was located and usually formed long floats on the reverse side of the fabric.

      A mechanical process closely corresponding to hand brocading is called swivel, a system of figuring fabrics by using mechanically controlled pattern shuttles. The figures, inserted between ground-weft picks, interlace with the warp. The lappet system produces figured fabrics resembling those made by swivel figuring, but the pattern yarns are extra warps (rather than wefts) brought into play from separate warp beams. Lappet weaving is generally confined to coarse pattern yarns and can be distinguished from swivel by its interlacing with weft rather than with warp yarns.

Jacquard weave
      The Jacquard weave, used to make allover figured fabrics such as brocades, tapestries, and damasks, is woven on a loom having a Jacquard attachment to control individual warps. Fabrics of this type are costly because of the time and skill involved in making the Jacquard cards, preparing the loom to produce a new pattern, and the slowness of the weaving operation. The Jacquard weave usually combines two or more basic weaves, with different weaves used for the design and the background.

Dobby weaves
      Dobby weaves also produce allover figured fabrics. They are made on looms having a dobby attachment, with narrow strips of wood instead of Jacquard cards. Dobby weaves are limited to simple, small geometric figures, with the design repeated frequently, and are fairly inexpensive to produce.

Gauze or leno weave
      Gauze weaving is an open weave made by twisting adjacent warps together. It is usually made by the leno, or doup, weaving process, in which a doup attachment, a thin hairpin-like needle attached to two healds, is used, and the adjacent warp yarns cross each other between picks. Since the crossed warps firmly lock each weft in place, gauze weaves are often used for sheer fabrics made of smooth fine yarns. Although gauze weaving, with its multitude of variations, has been adapted to modern production, it is an ancient technique.

Knitted fabrics (knitting)
      Knitted fabrics are constructed by the interlocking of a series of loops made from one or more yarns, with each row of loops caught into the preceding row. Loops running lengthwise are called wales, those running crosswise courses. Hand knitting probably originated among the nomads of the Arabian Desert about 1000 BC and spread from Egypt to Spain, France, and Italy. Knitting guilds were established in Paris and Florence by the later Middle Ages. Austria and Germany produced heavily cabled and knotted fabrics, embroidered with brightly coloured patterns. In The Netherlands, naturalistic patterns were worked on fabric in reverse stocking stitch, and several Dutch knitters went to Denmark to teach Danish women the Dutch skills. The craft of hand knitting became less important with the invention of a frame knitting machine in 1589, although the production of yarns for hand knitting has remained an important branch of the textile industry to the present day.

      The frame knitting machine allowed production of a complete row of loops at one time. The modern knitting industry, with its highly sophisticated machinery, has grown from this simple device.

      Knitted fabrics were formerly described in terms of the number of courses and wales per unit length and the weight of the fabric per unit area. This system is limited, however, and there is a shift to use of the dimensions and configuration of the single loop, the repeating unit determining such fabric characteristics as area, knitting quality, and weight. The length of yarn knitted into a loop or stitch is termed the stitch length, and in a plain knitted structure this is related to the courses per inch, wales per inch, and stitch density. The two basic equilibrium states for knitted fabrics are the dry-relaxed state, attained by allowing the fabric to relax freely in the air, and the wet-relaxed state, reached after static relaxation of the fabric in water followed by drying.

Knitting machines
      The needle is the basic element of all knitting machines. The two main needle types are the “bearded” spring needle, invented about 1589, and the more common latch needle, invented in 1847.

      The bearded needle, made from thin wire, has one end bent, forming an operating handle; the other end is drawn out and bent over, forming a long flexible tipped hook resembling a beard. A smooth groove, or eye, is cut in the stem or shank of the needle just behind the tip. In use this needle requires two other units, a sinker to form a loop and a presser to close the needle beard, allowing the loop to pass over the beard when a new stitch is formed. Bearded needles can be made from very fine wire and are used to produce fine fabrics.

      The latch needle is composed of a curved hook, a latch, or tumbler, that swings on a rivet just below the hook, and the stem, or butt. It is sometimes called the self-acting needle because no presser is needed; the hook is closed by the pressure of a completed loop on the latch as it rises on the shaft. Needles differ greatly in thickness, in gauge, and in length, and appropriate types must be selected for specific purposes. A 4-gauge needle, for example, is used for heavy sweaters, but an 80-gauge needle is required for fine hosiery.

      The type of stitch used in weft knitting affects both the appearance and properties of the knitted fabric. The basic stitches are plain, or jersey; rib; and purl. In the plain stitch, each loop is drawn through others to the same side of the fabric. In the rib stitch, loops of the same course are drawn to both sides of the fabric. The web is formed by two sets of needles, arranged opposite to each other and fed by the same thread, with each needle in one circle taking up a position between its counterparts in the other. In a 2:2 rib, two needles on one set alternate with two of the other. The interlock structure is a variant of the rib form in which two threads are alternately knitted by the opposite needles so that interlocking occurs. In the purl stitch, loops are drawn to opposite sides of the fabric, which, on both sides, has the appearance of the back of a plain stitch fabric. Jacquard mechanisms can be attached to knitting machines, so that individual needles can be controlled for each course or for every two, and complicated patterns can be knitted. To form a tuck stitch, a completed loop is not discharged from some of the needles in each course, and loops accumulating on these needles are later discharged together. The plaited stitch is made by feeding two threads into the same hook, so that one thread shows on the one side of the fabric and the other on the opposite side. A float stitch is produced by missing interlooping over a series of needles so that the thread floats over a few loops in each course.

      Knitting machines can be flat or circular. Flat machines have their needles mounted in a flat plate or needle bed or in two beds at right angles to each other and each at a 45° angle to the horizontal. The knitted fabric passes downward through the space between the upper edges of the plates, called the throat. In the knitting process, the needles are pushed up and down by cams attached to a carriage with a yarn guide, which moves over the length of the machine. The width of the fabric can be altered by increasing or decreasing the number of active needles, allowing production of shaped fabrics, which when sewn together make fully fashioned garments. Although flatbed machines are suited for hand operation, they are power driven in commercial use, and, by selection of colour, type of stitch, cam design, and Jacquard device, almost unlimited variety is possible. The cotton frame, designed to knit fine, fully fashioned goods, shaped for improved fit of such items as hosiery and sweaters, is fitted with automatic narrowing and widening devices.

      Circular machine needles are carried in grooves cut in the wall of a cylinder, which may be as small as one centimetre (0.4 inch) in diameter and as large as 1.5 metres (five feet). Some circular machines have two sets of needles, carried in concentric cylinders, so that the needles interlock. During the knitting operation the butts of the needles move through cam tracks, the needles sliding up and down to pick up yarn, form a new loop, and cast off the previously formed loop. In the least complicated of these machines, yarn is supplied from one package, each needle picking up the yarn once per revolution of the cylinder. Modern machines may have as many as 100 feeders, allowing each needle to pick up 100 threads per revolution. Both latch and spring needles are used, with the former more common. Modern, large, circular, plain or jersey machines having 90–100 feeders are frequently used to produce medium-weight fabric. Small bladelike units, or sinkers, are inserted between every two needles to engage and hold the completed fabric, preventing it from riding up with the needles as they are lifted to form new stitches. Machines may be fitted with pattern wheels controlling needle action to produce tuck and float stitches, and a Jacquard mechanism may also be attached. Stop motions are essential to stop the machine when a thread breaks. Because yarn tension affects fabric uniformity, various tension controllers have been devised. An alternative method, positive feed, feeding precisely measured amounts of yarn into the machine, is now considered more satisfactory.

      Circular rib machines consist of a vertical cylinder, with needle slots on the outside, and a horizontal bed in the form of a circular plate or dial with needle slots cut radially, so that the two sets of needles are arranged at right angles to each other.

      Seamless hosiery, knitted in tubular form, is produced by circular knitting machines. Modern hosiery machines, such as the Komet machine employ double-hooked needles directly opposite each other in the same plane to knit the leg and foot portions, the heel and the toe. The toe is later closed in a separate operation. In the Getaz toe, the seam is placed under the toes instead of on top of them.

      Underwear fabrics are usually knitted on circular machines, and—except for fully fashioned underwear, tights, and leotards, which are knitted to pattern and sewn together—underwear making is a cut, make, and trim operation. Tights or panty hose are a combination of hosiery and underwear and can be fully fashioned. Seamless panty hose are made on circular hose machines modified to make very long stockings with open tops, two of which are cut open at opposite sides and seamed together front and back. The wearing quality and fit of modern panty hose have been greatly improved with the development of stretch nylon and spandex, and greater variety has been introduced with the development of texturized yarn.

      Much hosiery is finished by washing, drying, and a boarding process in which the hosiery is drawn over a thin metal or wooden form of appropriate shape and pressed between two heated surfaces. The introduction of nylon fibre led to the development of a preboarding process, setting the loops and the fabric in the required shape before dyeing and finishing. The article, fitted on a form of appropriate shape, is placed in an autoclave or passed through a high-temperature setting unit. Fabric treated in this way does not distort during dyeing.

      Circular knitting machines can be adapted to make simulated furs. One type intermeshes plush loops with the plain-stitch base fabric then cuts the loops, producing a pile. A more common method forms the pile with a carded sliver. A plain-stitch fabric is used as the base and loose fibres from a sliver, fed from a brushing or carding device, are inserted by a V-shaped claw, forming the pile. Pile depth is determined by the length of the fibres in the sliver.

      One of the most sophisticated knitting machines incorporates electronic selection of sinkers in a Jacquard circular knitting machine.

      The two types of warp knitting are raschel, made with latch needles, and tricot, using bearded needles.

      Coarser yarns are generally used for raschel knitting, and there has recently been interest in knitting staple yarns on these machines. In the Raschel machine, the needles move in a ground steel plate, called the trick plate. The top of this plate, the verge, defines the level of the completed loops on the needle shank. The loops are prevented from moving upward when the needle rises by the downward pull of the fabric and the sinkers between the needles. Guide bars feed the yarn to the needles. In a knitting cycle, the needles start at the lowest point, when the preceding loop has just been cast off, and the new loop joins the needle hook to the fabric. The needles rise, while the new loop opens the latches and ends up on the shank below the latch. The guide bars then swing through the needles, and the front bar moves one needle space sideways. When the guide bar swings back to the front of the machine, the front bar has laid the thread on the hooks. The needles fall, the earlier loops close the latch to trap the new loops, and the old loops are cast off. Raschels, made in a variety of forms, are usually more open in construction and coarser in texture than are other warp knits.

      Tricot, a warp knit made with two sets of threads, is characterized by fine ribs running vertically on the fabric face and horizontally on its back. The tricot knitting machine makes light fabrics, weighing less than four ounces per square yard. Its development was stimulated by the invention of the so-called FNF compound needle, a sturdy device that later fell into disuse but that made possible improved production speeds. Although approximately half of the tricot machines in current use make plain fabrics on two guide bars, there is increasing interest in pattern knitting. In this type of knitting, the warp-knitting cycle requires close control on the lateral bar motion, achieved by control chains made of chunky metal links.

Special effects in warp knits
      The scope of warp knitting has been extended by the development of procedures for laying in nonknitted threads for colour, density, and texture effects (or inlaying), although such threads may also be an essential part of the structure. For example, in the form called “zigzagging across several pillars,” the ground of most raschel fabrics, the front bar makes crochet chains, or “pillars,” which are connected by zigzag inlays.

      An extension of conventional warp knitting is the Co-We-Nit warp-knitting machine, producing fabrics with the properties of both woven and knitted fabrics. The machines need have only two warp-forming warps and provision for up to eight interlooped warp threads between each chain of loops. These warp threads are interlaced with a quasiweft, forming a fabric resembling woven cloth on one side.

Other interlaced fabrics
Net and lace making
      The popularity of handmade laces led to the invention of lace-making machines. The early models required intricate engineering mechanisms, and the development of the modern lace industry originated when a machine was designed to produce laces identical with Brussels lace. In the Heathcot, or bobbinet, machine, warp threads were arranged so that the threads moved downward as the beams unwound. Other threads were wound on thin, flat spools or bobbins held in narrow carriages that could move in a groove or comb in two rows. The carriages carrying the bobbins were placed on one side of the vertical warp threads and given a pendulum-like motion, causing them to pass between the warp threads. The warp threads were then moved sideways, so that on the return swing each bobbin thread passed around one of them. Then the warp threads moved sideways in the opposite direction, thus completing a wrapping movement. In addition, each row of bobbins was moved by a rack-and-pinion gearing, one row to the left and one to the right. As these movements continued, the threads were laid diagonally across the fabric as the warp was delivered. Improvements on the Heathcot machine followed through the 19th century: Nottingham-lace machines, used primarily for coarse-lace production, employ larger bobbins, and the pattern threads are wound independently on section spools; in another type, the Barmens machine, threads on king bobbins on carriers are plaited together, sometimes with warp threads.

      Schiffli lace, a type of embroidery, is made by modern machines, evolved from a hand version, using needles with points at each end. Several hundred needles are placed horizontally, often in two rows, one above the other. The fabric to be embroidered is held vertically in a frame extending the full width of the machine, and the needles, supplied with yarn from individual spools, move backward and forward through the fabric. At each penetration a shuttle moves upward and interlaces yarn with the needle loop. Movement of both fabric and needles is controlled by Jacquard systems.

      Many types of machine-made laces are made, frequently with geometrically shaped nets forming their backgrounds. Formerly made only of cotton, they are now frequently made from man-made fibre yarns. Bobbinet lace, essentially a hexagonal net, is used as a base for appliqué work for durable non-run net hosiery, and, when heavily sized, for such materials as millinery and veilings. Barmens lace has a fairly heavy texture and an angular pattern; flowing lines, heavy outline cords, and fine net backgrounds are not usually made on Barmens machines.

      The introduction of light-resistant polyester yarns led to a revival of Nottingham machine-made curtains. Leavers lace is available in an infinite variety of patterns, since the manufacturing technique allows use of almost any type of yarn. The high strength and comparatively low cost of man-made fibre yarns has made sheer laces widely available.

      Net (netting), an open fabric having geometrically shaped, open meshes, is produced with meshes ranging from fine to large. Formerly made by hand, the various types are now made on knitting machines. Popular types include bobbinet, made with hexagonal-shaped mesh and used for formal gowns, veils, and curtains, and tulle, a closely constructed, fine net having similar uses. Fishnet, a coarse type with knots in four corners forming the mesh formerly made by fishermen, is now a popular machine-made curtain fabric.

braiding or plaiting
      Braid is made by interlacing three or more yarns or fabric strips forming a flat or tubular narrow fabric. It is used as trimming and for belts and is also sewn together to make hats and braided rugs. Plaiting, usually used synonymously with braiding, may be used in a more limited sense, applying only to a braid made from such materials as rope and straw.

Noninterlaced fabrics
      With the exception of felt, nonwoven materials are in the early stages of development. There is controversy about the precise meaning of the term nonwoven, but one authority defines nonwoven fabrics as textile fabrics made of a fibrous layer having randomly laid or oriented fibres or threads.

      Felts are a class of fabrics or fibrous structures obtained through the interlocking of wool, fur, or some hair fibres under conditions of heat, moisture, and pressure. Other fibres will not felt alone but can be mixed with wool, which acts as a carrier. Three separate industries manufacture goods through the use of these properties. The goods produced are wool felt, in rolls and sheets; hats, both fur and wool; and woven felts, ranging from thin billiard tablecloths to heavy industrial fabrics used for dewatering in the manufacture of paper. Felts of the nonwoven class are considered to be the first textile goods produced, and many references may be found to felts and their uses in the histories of ancient civilizations. The nomadic tribes of north central Asia still produce felts for clothing and shelter, utilizing the primitive methods handed down from antiquity.

      Several methods for making nonwoven materials are now firmly established, and others are being developed.

      In adhesive bonding, fabrics are made by forming a web of fibres, applying an adhesive, then drying and curing the adhesive. The web can be produced by a garnett machine or a conventional card, several layers being piled up to obtain the required thickness. Such webs are weak across the width, but this does not limit their use for certain end products. A more uniform product results from cross laying the web. Other machines, such as the Rando-Webber, lay down the fibres by an airstream.

      The fibres in the web may be stuck together in various ways. The web may be sprayed with an emulsion of an adhesive—e.g., a latex based on synthetic rubber, acrylic derivatives, or natural rubber—or, alternatively, may be carried on a mesh screen through a bath of latex, the excess being squeezed out by a pair of rollers. Adhesives may also be applied as a foam or a fine powder. Thermoplastic fibres can be incorporated in the blend and on heating will bond together, giving strength to the mass of fibres.

      Mechanically bonded nonwoven products (or fibre-bonded nonwovens) are webs strengthened by mechanical means. The web, sometimes reinforced by a thin cotton scrim in the middle or by texturized yarns distributed lengthwise through it, is punched by barbed needles mounted in a needle board. The fibres in the web are caught up by the needle barbs, and the resulting increased entanglement yields a compact product sufficiently strong for many purposes. Modern needle-felting or punching machines perform 900 punches per minute, and selection of appropriate needles is based on the fibre being processed and the desired product.

      The Arachne machine, the best known unit for stitch bonding, operates much like a warp-knitting machine. Fibrous web is fed into the machine, and stitches are made by a series of needles placed about eight millimetres apart, giving the web longitudinal strength; lateral strength is provided by the fibre interactions. The products are attractive for many purposes and can be improved by treatment with polyester resins to increase their wear resistance and with thermosetting precondensates to reduce their tendency to pill (e.g., to form small tangles). A new device attached to the Arachne machine permits introduction of weft ends at every single course, making colour effects possible. Araloop machines yield loop-pile fabric suitable for towels and floor coverings.

      Three sewing-knitting machines were invented in East Germany in 1958. In the Malimo machine process, warp yarns are placed on top of filling yarns and stitched together by a third yarn. The Maliwatt machine interlaces a web of fibres with a sewing thread, giving the effect of parallel seams. The Malipol machine produces a one-sided pile fabric by stitching loop pile through a backing fabric. A new British process makes double-sided terry fabric, called Terrytuft, by inserting pile yarn into a backing and knotting it into position.

      Webs made of yarns having a core of one polymer and an outer sheath of another material having a lower softening point may be lightly pressed and then heated to an appropriate temperature. The core yarn will “spot weld” together at the junction points, binding the mass of fibres together. Products made in this way find uses as industrial fabrics, coatings, and interlinings.

Laminating (lamination)
      The joining of one fabric to another by an adhesive such as natural rubber has long been practiced in rainwear manufacture. Composite materials were later joined by bonding a layer of polyurethane or other foam to a conventional textile fabric. The two components were stuck together by flame bonding or by an adhesive in the form of a continuous coating, in spots, or as a powder. This laminating process has been extended to the joining of two layers of fabric. Each fabric layer can be quite thin, and the amount and type of adhesive are chosen to add only minimum stiffening. Such materials offer a variety of applications. A coating fabric, for example, may be joined to a lining; dimensionally stable composites can be made from cloth layers that are in themselves dimensionally unstable. Acetate knitted fabrics are frequently used as backing material in laminates.

Textile finishing processes

Basic methods and processes
      The term finishing includes all the mechanical and chemical processes employed commercially to improve the acceptability of the product, except those procedures directly concerned with colouring. The objective of the various finishing processes is to make fabric from the loom or knitting frame more acceptable to the consumer. Finishing processes include preparatory treatments used before additional treatment, such as bleaching prior to dyeing; treatments, such as glazing, to enhance appearance; sizing, affecting touch; and treatments adding properties to enhance performance, such as preshrinking. Newly formed cloth is generally dirty, harsh, and unattractive, requiring considerable skill for conversion into a desirable product. Before treatment, the unfinished fabrics are referred to as gray goods, or sometimes, in the case of silks, as greige goods.

      Finishing formerly involved a limited number of comparatively simple operations evolved over the years from hand methods. The skill of English and Scottish finishers was widely recognized, and much British cloth owed its high reputation to the expertise of the finisher. More sophisticated modern finishing methods have been achieved through intense and imaginative research.

Preparatory treatments
      It is frequently necessary to carry out some preparatory treatment before the application of other finishing processes to the newly constructed fabric. Any remaining impurities must be removed, and additives used to facilitate the manufacturing process must also be removed. Bleaching may be required to increase whiteness or to prepare for colour application. Some of the most frequently used preparatory processes are discussed below.

Burling and mending
      Newly made goods, which frequently show imperfections, are carefully inspected, and defects are usually repaired by hand operations. The first inspection of woollen and worsted fabrics is called perching. Burling, mainly applied to woollen, worsted, spun rayon, and cotton fabrics, is the process of removing any remaining foreign matter, such as burrs and, also, any loose threads, knots, and undesired slubs. Mending, frequently necessary for woollens and worsteds, eliminates such defects as holes or tears, broken yarns, and missed warp or weft yarns.

      When applied to gray goods, scouring removes substances that have adhered to the fibres during production of the yarn or fabric, such as dirt, oils, and any sizing or lint applied to warp yarns to facilitate weaving.

      Bleaching, a process of whitening fabric by removal of natural colour, such as the tan of linen, is usually carried out by means of chemicals selected according to the chemical composition of the fibre. Chemical bleaching is usually accomplished by oxidation, destroying colour by the application of oxygen, or by reduction, removing colour by hydrogenation. cotton and other cellulosic fibres are usually treated with heated alkaline hydrogen peroxide; wool and other animal fibres are subjected to such acidic reducing agents as gaseous sulfur dioxide or to such mildly alkaline oxidizing agents as hydrogen peroxide. Synthetic fibres, when they require bleaching, may be treated with either oxidizing or reducing agents, depending upon their chemical composition. Cottons are frequently scoured and bleached by a continuous system.

      Mercerization is a process applied to cotton and sometimes to cotton blends to increase lustre (thus also enhancing appearance), to improve strength, and to improve their affinity for dyes. The process, which may be applied at the yarn or fabric stage, involves immersion under tension in a caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) solution, which is later neutralized in acid. The treatment produces permanent swelling of the fibre.

      Water, used in various phases of textile processing, accumulates in fabrics, and the excess moisture must eventually be removed. Because evaporative heating is costly, the first stage of drying uses mechanical methods to remove as much moisture as possible. Such methods include the use of centrifuges and a continuous method employing vacuum suction rolls. Any remaining moisture is then removed by evaporation in heated dryers. Various types of dryers operate by conveying the relaxed fabric through the chamber while festooned in loops, using a frame to hold the selvages taut while the fabric travels through the chamber, and passing the fabric over a series of hot cylinders. Because overdrying may produce a harsh hand, temperature, humidity, and drying time require careful control.

Finishes enhancing appearance
      Treatments enhancing appearance include such processes as napping and shearing, brushing, singeing, beetling, decating, tentering, calendering or pressing, moiréing (moiré pattern), embossing, creping, glazing, polishing, and optical brightening.

Napping and shearing
      Napping is a process that may be applied to woollens, cottons, spun silks, and spun rayons, including both woven and knitted types, to raise a velvety, soft surface. The process involves passing the fabric over revolving cylinders covered with fine wires that lift the short, loose fibres, usually from the weft yarns, to the surface, forming a nap. The process, which increases warmth, is frequently applied to woollens and worsteds and also to blankets.

      Shearing cuts the raised nap to a uniform height and is used for the same purpose on pile fabrics. Shearing machines operate much like rotary lawn mowers, and the amount of shearing depends upon the desired height of the nap or pile, with such fabrics as gabardine receiving very close shearing. Shearing may also be applied to create stripes and other patterns by varying surface height.

      This process, applied to a wide variety of fabrics, is usually accomplished by bristle-covered rollers. The process is used to remove loose threads and short fibre ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and is also used to raise a nap on knits and woven fabrics. Brushing is frequently applied to fabrics after shearing, removing the cut fibres that have fallen into the nap.

      Also called gassing, singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres, yarn ends, and fuzz. This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric. Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated material over a wet surface to assure that any smoldering is halted.

      Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard, flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous. In this process, the fabric, dampened and wound around an iron cylinder, is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets.

      Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds, man-made and blended fibre fabrics, and various types of knits. It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics. When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage. In wet decating, which gives a subtle lustre, or bloom, fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders.

Tentering, crabbing, and heat-setting
      These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven fabrics at right angles to each other, and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions. Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame, consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric, and travelling on tracks. As the fabric passes through the heated chamber, creases and wrinkles are removed, the weave is straightened, and the fabric is dried to its final size. When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing; when applied to synthetic fibres it is sometimes called heat-setting, a term also applied to the permanent setting of pleats, creases, and special surface effects.

      Calendering is a final process in which heat and pressure are applied to a fabric by passing it between heated rollers, imparting a flat, glossy, smooth surface. Lustre increases when the degree of heat and pressure is increased. Calendering is applied to fabrics in which a smooth, flat surface is desirable, such as most cottons, many linens and silks, and various man-made fabrics. In such fabrics as velveteen, a flat surface is not desirable, and the cloth is steamed while in tension, without pressing. When applied to wool, the process is called pressing, and employs heavy, heated metal plates to steam and press the fabric. Calendering is not usually a permanent process.

      Moiréing, embossing, glazing and ciréing, and polishing. These are all variations of the calendering process. Moiré is a wavy or “watered” effect imparted by engraved rollers that press the design into the fabric. The process, applied to cotton, acetate, rayon, and some ribbed synthetic fabrics, is only permanent for acetates and resin-treated rayons. embossing imparts a raised design that stands out from the background and is achieved by passing the fabric through heated rollers engraved with a design. Although embossing was formerly temporary, processes have now been developed to make this effect permanent.

      Glazing imparts a smooth, stiff, highly polished surface to such fabrics as chintz. It is achieved by applying such stiffeners as starch, glue, shellac, or resin to the fabric and then passing it through smooth, hot rollers that generate friction. Resins are now widely employed to impart permanent glaze. Ciré (from the French word for waxed) is a similar process applied to rayons and silks by the application of wax followed by hot calendering, producing a high, metallic gloss. Ciré finishes can be achieved without a sizing substance in acetates, which are thermoplastic (e.g., can be softened by heat), by the application of heat.

      Polishing, used to impart sheen to cottons without making them as stiff as glazed types, is usually achieved by mercerizing the fabric and then passing it through friction rollers.

      A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing. In one method, which is not permanent, the cloth is passed, in the presence of steam, between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas. In the more permanent caustic soda method, a caustic soda paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form; or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda. The treated areas shrink, and the untreated areas pucker. If the pattern is applied in the form of stripes, the effect is called plissé; an allover design produces blister crepe.

Optical brightening
      Optical brightening, or optical bleaches, are finishes giving the effect of great whiteness and brightness because of the way in which they reflect light. These compounds contain fluorescent colourless dyes, causing more blue light to be reflected. Changes in colour may occur as the fluorescent material loses energy, but new optical whiteners can be applied during the laundering process.

Finishes enhancing tactile qualities
      Finishes enhancing the feel and drape of fabrics involve the addition of sizing, weighting, fulling, and softening agents, which may be either temporary or permanent.

      Sizing, or dressing, agents are compounds that form a film around the yarn or individual fibres, increasing weight, crispness, and lustre. Sizing substances, including starches, gelatin, glue, casein, and clay, are frequently applied to cottons and are not permanent.

      Weighting, in the processing of silk, involves the application of metallic salts to add body and weight. The process is not permanent but can be repeated.

      Also called felting or milling, fulling is a process that increases the thickness and compactness of wool by subjecting it to moisture, heat, friction, and pressure until shrinkage of 10 to 25 percent is achieved. Shrinkage occurs in both the warp and weft, producing a smooth, tightly finished fabric that may be so compact that it resembles felt.

      Making fabrics softer and sometimes also increasing absorbency involves the addition of such agents as dextrin, glycerin, sulfonated oils, sulfated tallow, and sulfated alcohols.

Finishes improving performance
      The performance of fabrics in use has been greatly improved by the development of processes to control shrinkage, new resin finishes, and new heat-sensitive synthetic fibres.

Shrinkage control
      Shrinkage control processes are applied by compressive shrinkage, resin treatment, or heat-setting. Compressive, or relaxation, shrinkage is applied to cotton and to certain cotton blends to reduce the stretching they experience during weaving and other processing. The fabric is dampened and dried in a relaxed state, eliminating tensions and distortions. The number of warp and weft yarns per square inch is increased, contributing greater durability, and fabrics treated by this method are usually smooth and have soft lustre. The process involves spraying the fabric with water, then pressing the fabric against a steam-heated cylinder covered with a thick blanket of woollen felt or rubber. The manufacturer is often required to specify the residual shrinkage, or percentage of shrinkage, that may still occur after the preshrinking process.

      Rayons and rayon blends may be stabilized by the use of resins, which impregnate the fibre. Such fabrics may also be stabilized by employing acetals to produce cross-linking, a chemical reaction. Such synthetics as polyesters and nylons, which are heat sensitive, are usually permanently stabilized by heat-setting during finishing.

      Shrinkage of wools is frequently controlled by treatment with chlorine, partially destroying the scales that occur on wool fibres, thus increasing resistance to the natural tendency of wool to felt. Other methods employ coating with resins that attach to the scales in order to discourage felting shrinkage.

Durable press
      Durable press fabrics have such characteristics as shape retention, permanent pleating and creasing, permanently smooth seams, and the ability to shed wrinkles, and thus retain a fresh appearance without ironing. Such fabrics may be safely washed and dried by machine. These useful characteristics are imparted by a curing process. Depending upon composition and desired results, fabrics may be precured, a process in which a chemical resin is added, the fabric is dried and cured (baked), and heat is applied by pressing after garment construction; or fabrics may be postcured, a process in which resin is added, the fabric is dried, made into a garment, pressed, and then cured.

      Wash-and-wear was an early durable press process employing chemical treatment and curing of fabrics; at least light ironing was required to restore appearance. Later, however, processes were developed that allowed such fabrics to regain smoothness after home machine washing at moderate temperature, followed by tumble drying.

Crease resistance
      Crease, or wrinkle, resistance is frequently achieved by application of a synthetic resin, such as melamine or epoxy.

Soil release
      Soil release finishes facilitate removal of waterborne and oil stains from fabrics such as polyester and cotton blends and fabrics treated for durable press, which usually show some resistance to stain removal by normal cleaning processes. Other finishes have been developed that give fabrics resistance to water and oil stains.

Antistatic finishes
      The accumulation of static electricity in such synthetic fibres as nylon, polyesters, and acrylics produces clinging, which may be reduced by application of permanent antistatic agents during processing. Consumers can partially reduce static electricity by adding commercial fabric softeners during laundering.

Antibacterial and antifungus finishes
      Antibacterial finishes are germicides applied to fabrics to prevent odours produced by bacterial decomposition, such as perspiration odours, and also to reduce the possibility of infection by contact with contaminated textiles. Fabrics may also be treated with germicides to prevent mildew, a parasitic fungus that may grow on fabrics that are not thoroughly dried. Both mildew and rot, another form of decay, may also be controlled by treatment with resins.

Moth-repellent treatments
      Wool and silk are subject to attack by moths but may be made moth repellent by the application of appropriate chemicals either added in the dye bath or applied to the finished fabric.

Waterproofing and water repellence
      Waterproofing is a process applied to such items as raincoats and umbrellas, closing the pores of the fabric by application of such substances as insoluble metallic compounds, paraffin, bituminous materials, and drying oils. Water-repellent finishes are surface finishes imparting some degree of resistance to water but are more comfortable to wear because the fabric pores remain open. Such finishes include wax and resin mixtures, aluminum salts, silicones, and fluoro-chemicals.

Flameproof, fireproof, and fire-resistant finishes
      Flameproof fabrics are able to withstand exposure to flame or high temperature. This is achieved by application of various finishes, depending upon the fabric treated, that cause burning to stop as soon as the source of heat is removed. Fireproofing is achieved by the application of a finish that will cut off the oxygen supply around the flame. Fire-resistant finishes cause fabrics to resist the spread of flame.

Dyeing and printing
      Dyeing and printing are processes employed in the conversion of raw textile fibres into finished goods that add much to the appearance of textile fabrics.

      Most forms of textile materials can be dyed at almost any stage. Quality woollen goods are frequently dyed in the form of loose fibre, but top dyeing or cheese dyeing is favoured in treating worsteds. Manufacturers prefer piece dyeing, which allows stocking of white goods, reducing the risk of being overstocked with cloth dyed in colours that have not been ordered.

      The dye used depends on the type of material and the specific requirements to be met. For some purposes, high lightfastness is essential; but for others it may be inconsequential. Factors considered in dye selection include fastness to light, reaction to washing and rubbing (crocking), and the cost of the dyeing process. Effective preparation of the material for dyeing is essential.

Types of dyes
       Fibres and DyesTextile dyes include acid dyes (acid dye), used mainly for dyeing wool, silk, and nylon; and direct (direct dye) or substantive dyes, which have a strong affinity for cellulose fibres (see Table (Fibres and Dyes)). Mordant dyes (mordant dye) require the addition of chemical substances, such as salts, to give them an affinity for the material being dyed. They are applied to cellulosic fibres, wool, or silk after such materials have been treated with metal salts. Sulfur dyes (sulfur dye), used to dye cellulose, are inexpensive, but produce colours lacking brilliance. Azoic dyes (azo dye) are insoluble pigments formed within the fibre by padding, first with a soluble coupling compound and then with a diazotized base. Vat dyes, insoluble in water, are converted into soluble colourless compounds by means of alkaline sodium hydrosulfite. Cellulose absorbs these colourless compounds, which are subsequently oxidized to an insoluble pigment. Such dyes are colourfast. Disperse dyes are suspensions of finely divided insoluble, organic pigments used to dye such hydrophobic fibres as polyesters, nylon, and cellulose acetates.

      Reactive dyes (reactive dye) combine directly with the fibre, resulting in excellent colourfastness. The first ranges of reactive dyes for cellulose fibres were introduced in the mid-1950s. A wide variety is now available.

Charles S. Whewell

Application process
      The dyeing of a textile fibre is carried out in a solution, generally aqueous, known as the dye liquor or dyebath. For true dyeing (as opposed to mere staining) to have taken place, the coloration must be relatively permanent; that is, not readily removed by rinsing in water or by normal washing procedures. Moreover, the dyeing must not fade rapidly on exposure to light. The process of attachment of the dye molecule to the fibre is one of absorption; that is, the dye molecules concentrate on the fibre surface.

      There are four kinds of forces by which dye molecules are bound to fibre: (1) ionic forces, (2) hydrogen bonding, (3) van der Waals' forces, and (4) covalent chemical linkages. In the dyeing of wool, which is a complex protein containing about 20 different α-amino acids, the sulfuric acid added to the dyebath forms ionic linkages with the amino groups of the protein. In the process of dyeing, the sulfate anion (negative ion) is replaced by a dye anion. In the dyeing of wool, silk, and synthetic fibres, hydrogen bonds are probably set up between the azo, amino, alkylamino, and other groups, and the amido -CO-NH-, groups. Van der Waals' forces (the attractive forces between the atoms or molecules of all substances) are thought to act in the dyeing of cotton between the molecular units of the fibre and the linear, extended molecules of direct dyes. Covalent chemical links are brought about in the dyebath by chemical reaction between a fibre-reactive dye molecule, one containing a chemically reactive centre, and a hydroxy group of a cotton fibre, in the presence of alkali.

      In any dyeing process, whatever the chemical class of dye being used, heat must be supplied to the dyebath; energy is used in transferring dye molecules from the solution to the fibre as well as in swelling the fibre to render it more receptive. The technical term for the transfer process is exhaustion. Evenness of dyeing, known as levelness, is an important quality in the dyeing of all forms of natural and synthetic fibres; it may be attained by control of dyeing conditions, that is, by agitation to ensure proper contact between dye liquor and substance being dyed, and by use of restraining agents to control rate of dyeing, or strike.

      Serious consideration has recently been given to methods of dyeing in which water as the medium is replaced by solvents such as the chlorinated hydrocarbons used in dry cleaning. There are a number of technical advantages in solvent dyeing, apart from the elimination of effluent (pollution) problems associated with conventional methods of dyeing and finishing. Advantages include more rapid wetting of textiles, less swelling, increased speed of dyeing per given amount of material, and savings in energy, because less heat is required to heat or evaporate perchloroethylene, for example, than is needed for water.

      For each application the dyer selects the combination of dyes best suited to the particular fibre or blend he plans to dye and best able to withstand the conditions the textile will encounter in further processing and in use in the finished article. In general, the higher the standard of fastness, the more expensive the dye, and the final choice may be a compromise between the desired fastness standards and the cost of the dyes. Fastness tests and standards have been the subject of work by the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), Europäisch-Continentale Echtheitsconvention (ECE), and the Society of Dyers and Colourists (SDC), Bradford, West Yorkshire. Efforts have been made to set up a unified system by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO). Lightfastness is assessed on a scale of 8; 1 represents the poorest fastness and 8 the best. Fastness to other agents, among them water, bleach, acid, alkali, detergent solution, and perspiration, is measured on a scale of 5.

      Dyes are generally used in combination to achieve a desired hue or fashion shade. If the substance to be dyed consists of only one type of fibre, such as wool, the dye mixture will be made up solely of wool dyes. But if the fabric contains more than one kind of fibre and they differ in dyeing properties, then mixtures of different application classes of dyes are used.

Forms in which textiles are dyed
      Loose stock consists of randomly distributed wool or cotton fibres; tow is the corresponding term for synthetic fibres. Sliver is a more orderly arrangement of fibres in a loosely connected, continuous form suitable for spinning. It is wound into either hanks or tops, loose balls about one foot in diameter. After spinning, the yarn is either made up into hanks or into packages weighing about two pounds each, by winding the yarn round perforated metal tubes. The packages are curiously named, some according to their shapes; for example, cones, cheeses, cakes, beams, and rockets. Piece goods, woven cloth or textiles knitted in rope form, and garments, a term that includes stockings, tights, hose, and half hose, are also dyed as such.

Machinery and equipment
      Modern dyeing machines are made from stainless steels. Steels containing up to 4 percent molybdenum are favoured to withstand the acid conditions that are common. A dyeing machine consists essentially of a vessel to contain the dye liquor, provided with equipment for heating, cooling, and circulating the liquor into and around the goods to be dyed or moving the goods through the dye liquor. The kind of machine employed depends on the nature of the goods to be dyed. Labour and energy costs are high in relation to total dyeing costs; the dyer's aim is to shorten dyeing times to save steam and electrical power and to avoid spoilage of goods.

      A widely used machine is the conical-pan loose-stock machine; fibres are held in an inner truncated-conical vessel while the hot dye liquor is mechanically pumped through. The fibre mass tends to become compressed in the upper narrow half of the cone, assisting efficient circulation. Levelling problems are less important because uniformity may be achieved by blending the dyed fibres prior to spinning.

      The Hussong machine is the traditional apparatus; it has a long, square-ended tank as dyebath into which a framework of poles carrying hanks can be lowered. The dye liquor is circulated by an impeller and moves through a perforated false bottom that also houses the open steam pipe for heating. In modern machines, circulation is improved especially at the point of contact between hank and pole. This leads to better levelling and elimination of irregularities caused by uneven cooling.

      In package-dyeing machines dye liquor may be pumped in either of two directions: (1) through the perforated central spindle and outward through the package, or (2) by the reverse path into the outer layers of the package and out of the spindle. In either case levelness is important. In the case of soluble dyes the dye liquor must be free of suspended matter. In the case of disperse dyes, in which particles of dye are dispersed in, rather than dissolved in, the solution, no gross aggregates can be allowed; otherwise the packages would retain undesirable solids on the outer and inner surfaces. Some package-dyeing machines are capable of working under pressure at temperatures up to 130° C.

      The winch is the oldest piece-dyeing machine and takes its name from the slatted roller that moves an endless rope of cloth or endless belt of cloth at full width through the dye liquor. Pressurized-winch machines have been developed in the U.S. In an entirely new concept, the Gaston County jet machine circulates fabric in rope form through a pipe by means of a high-pressure jet of dye liquor. The jet machine is increasingly important in high-temperature dyeing of synthetic fibres, especially polyester fabrics.

      Another machine, the jig, has a V-shaped trough holding the dye liquor and guide rollers to carry the cloth at full width between two external, powered rollers; the cloth is wound onto each roller alternately, that is, the cloth is first moved forward, then backward through the dye liquor until dyeing is complete. Modern machines, automatically controlled and programmed, can be built to work under pressure.

      Solutions or suspensions of colorants or their precursors may be padded onto piece goods by passing the cloth through a trough containing the liquor and then between rollers under pressure. Development and fixation processes such as steaming or dry-heat treatment can be carried out in other apparatus. The method is used in semicontinuous and continuous operations.

Edward Noah Abrahart Ed.

      Printing is a process of decorating textile fabrics by application of pigments, dyes, or other related materials in the form of patterns. Although apparently developed from the hand painting of fabrics, such methods are also of great antiquity. There is evidence of printing being carried out in India during the 4th century BC, and a printing block dated at about AD 300 has been unearthed in the burial grounds of Akhmīn in Upper Egypt. Pre-Columbian printed textiles have been found in Peru and Mexico. Textile printing has become highly sophisticated and has involved the skills of many artists and designers.

      The four main methods of textile printing are block, roller, screen, and heat transfer printing. In each of these methods, the application of the colour, usually as a thickened paste, is followed by fixation, usually by steaming or heating, and then removal of excess colour by washing. Printing styles are classified as direct, discharge, or resist. In direct printing, coloured pastes are printed directly on the cloth. For discharge printing, the cloth is first dyed with a background colour, which is destroyed by reagents, or reducing agents, carried in a print paste. This action may leave the discharged design white on a coloured background, although print pastes may also contain colouring matters not destroyed by the discharging agent, producing a coloured design. In the resist process (resist printing), the cloth is first printed with a substance called a resist, protecting these printed areas from accepting colour. When the cloth is dyed or pigment padded only those parts not printed with the resist are dyed. A special application of this technique, imparting plissé effects, is the printing of the fabric with a resist, followed by treatment with caustic soda.

      Wooden blocks, carved with a design standing out in relief, are made from solid pieces of wood or by bonding closely grained woods with cheaper ones. When designs include large areas, these are recessed and the space filled with hard wool felt. Fine lines are usually built up with copper strips, and other effects are obtained with copper strips interleaved with felt. To facilitate registration of successive prints, or lays, each block has several pitch pins arranged to coincide with well-defined points in the pattern. Cloth is printed on a table covered with several thicknesses of fabric or blanket, the whole covered with a thick sheet of tightly stretched synthetic rubber. The cloth to be printed is spread on the rubber, either gummed in position or pinned to a backcloth attached to the table. Colour is applied evenly to the block, and the pattern is stamped on the fabric to be printed, using the handle of a small heavy hammer, or maul, to aid penetration of the paste. More colour is then applied to the block and the process is repeated using the pitch pin to obtain true registration. After the fabric has been entirely printed with one colour, other colours are applied in the same way until the design is complete. Although block printing is becoming too laborious and costly for commercial use, some of the most beautiful prints have been made in this way.

      This technique is used whenever long runs of fabric are to be printed with the same design. The modern machine, based on one originally devised in 1783, consists of a large central cast-iron cylinder over which passes a thick endless blanket providing a resilient support for the fabric. Backing fabrics, called back grays, are placed between the blanket and the fabric to prevent undue staining of the blanket. Although formerly made of cotton fabric, most modern back grays are continuous belts of nylon. The blanket and back gray are appropriately tensioned, so that the fabric moves through the machine as the central cylinder rotates. Engraved printing rollers, one for each colour, press against the fabric and the central cylinder. The pattern on the roller is etched on the surface of a copper shell supported on a mandrel. High-quality engraving is essential for good printing. Each printing roller is provided with a rotating colour-furnishing roller, partially immersed in a trough of printing paste. Finely ground blades (doctor blades) remove excess colour paste from the unengraved areas of these rollers, and each also has a lint blade. The printed fabric passes from the main cylinder and through a drying and steaming chamber to fix the colour. Although this machine prints only one side of the fabric, the Duplex roller machine, essentially a combination of two roller machines, prints both sides. Modern printing machines are smooth-running precision machines fitted with carefully designed roller bearings and hydraulic or pneumatic mechanisms to ensure uniform pressure and flexibility. Pressure is regulated from an instrument panel, and each roller is controlled independently. Automatic registration is effected by electromagnetic push-button control, and modern electric motors provide smooth-running, variable-speed drives. The washing of back grays and printer's blankets has also been automated.

      Spray printing is the application of colour from spray guns through stencils and has limited but occasionally profitable use.

Screen printing
      Screen printing may be a hand operation or an automatic machine process. The cloth is first laid on a printing table, gummed in position or pinned to a back gray, and then the design is applied through a screen made of silk or nylon gauze stretched over a wooden or metal frame, on which the design for one colour has been reproduced. This is usually a photographic process, although hand painting with a suitably resistant blocking paint is an alternative. A screen is placed over the fabric on the table against registration stops, ensuring accurate pattern fitting. Print paste is poured on to the screen edge nearest the operator and is spread with a squeegee over the surface of the screen so that colour is pushed through the open parts. The screen is moved until one colour has been applied to the cloth. For application of other colours, the process is repeated with different screens.

      With the growing importance of screen printing, the hand operation has been largely replaced by mechanical methods. In some machines, the screens are flat, as in hand printing; others employ rotary screens.

Heat transfer printing
      The popularity of polyester fabrics has led to the development of a completely new form of printing termed heat transfer printing, which prints the pattern on paper with carefully selected dyes. The paper is then applied to the fabric by passing the two together through a type of hot calender, and the pattern is transferred from one to the other. This method opens up new possibilities such as the production of halftone effects.

      In all textile printing, the nature and, particularly, the viscosity of the print paste are important, and the thickeners employed must be compatible with all the other components. For conventional methods the thickeners are such reagents as starch, gum tragacanth, alginates, methyl cellulose ethers, and sodium carboxymethyl cellulose. Many types of dye can be applied, including direct cotton, vat, mordant, and reactive dyes, as well as pigment colours. Most dyes are fixed by steaming or aging, by a batch or continuous method, and more rapid fixation is effected by flash aging—e.g., allowing a shorter steaming period by employing smaller machines. After steaming, the fabric must be thoroughly washed to remove loose dye and thickener, ensuring fastness to rubbing.

      Most textile materials can be printed without special pretreatment, but wool cloths are generally chlorinated before printing. Tops (long, parallel wool fibres), printed in stripes, are used for mixed effects, and printed warps produce shadowy effects. Tufted carpets are printed by a process designed to ensure good penetration.

Textile consumption
      Textiles are commonly associated with clothing and soft furnishings, an association that accounts for the great emphasis on style and design in textiles. These consume a large portion of total industry production.

Changing uses of fabric in apparel
      Great changes have occurred in the fabrics used for clothing (clothing and footwear industry), with heavy woollen and worsted suitings being replaced by lighter materials, often made from blends of natural and man-made fibres, possibly owing to improved indoor heating. Warp-knitted fabrics made from bulked yarns are replacing woven fabrics, and there is a trend away from formality in both day and evening dress to more casual wear, for which knitted garments are especially appropriate. The use of synthetic fibre fabrics has established the easy-care concept and made formerly fragile light and diaphanous fabrics more durable. The introduction of elastomeric fibres has revolutionized the foundation-garment trade, and the use of stretch yarns of all types has produced outerwear that is close-fitting but comfortable.

      Manufacturers of tailored garments formerly used interlinings made of horsehair, which was later replaced by goat hair and then by resin-treated viscose rayon. Today fusible interlinings and various washable synthetics are widely used. The performance of a garment is greatly influenced by such factors as the interlining used and the sewing threads employed.

      The care required by a textile fabric depends upon both fibre content and the application of various finishing processes. In 1972 the United States Federal Trade Commission passed regulations requiring fabric manufacturers to provide the consumer with care labels to be sewn into homemade garments, and requiring ready-to-wear manufacturers to sew permanent care information labels into clothing (see also clothing and footwear industry).

Household textiles
      Household textiles, frequently referred to as soft furnishings, are fabrics used in the home. They include items frequently classified as linens, such as bath and dish towels, table linens, shower curtains, and bathroom ensembles. Related items include sheets, pillowcases, mattresses, blankets, comforters, and bedspreads. In addition, textile products contributing to the atmosphere and comfort of the home include rugs and carpeting, draperies, curtains, and upholstery fabrics.

      Most of these items are also used in hotels and motels, and many are used in offices, showrooms, retail stores, restaurants, recreational facilities, and various other commercial establishments.

Industrial fabrics
      This class of fabrics includes composition products, processing fabrics, and direct-use types.

Composition products
      In composition products, the fabrics are used as reinforcements in compositions with other materials, such as rubber and plastics. These products—prepared by such processes as coating, impregnating, and laminating—include tires, belting, hoses, inflatable items, and typewriter-ribbon fabrics.

Processing fabrics
      Processing fabrics are used by various manufacturers for such purposes as filtration, for bolting cloths used for various types of sifting and screening, and in commercial laundering as press covers and as nets segregating lots during washing. In textile finishing back grays are used as backing for fabrics that are being printed.

Direct-use fabrics
      Direct-use fabrics are manufactured or incorporated into finished products, such as awnings and canopies, tarpaulins, tents, outdoor furniture, luggage, and footwear.

Fabrics for protective clothing
      Fabrics for military purposes must frequently withstand severe conditions. Among their uses are Arctic and cold-weather clothing, tropical wear, rot-resistant material, webbing, inflated life vests, tent fabrics, safety belts, and parachute cloth and harnesses. Parachute cloth, for example, must meet exacting specifications, air porosity being a vital factor. New fabrics are also being developed for garments used in space travel. In protective clothing a subtle balance between protection and comfort is required.

      The many uses of textiles enter into almost every aspect of modern life. For some purposes, however, the role of textiles is being challenged by developments in plastic and paper products. Although many of these currently have certain limitations, it is likely that they will be improved, presenting a greater challenge to textile manufacturers, who must be concerned with both retaining present markets and expanding into completely new areas.

Charles S. Whewell Ed.

Additional Reading
Works of general interest include George E. Linton, Applied Basic Textiles (1966); Evelyn E. Stout, Introduction to Textiles, 3rd ed. (1970); Isabel B. Wingate and June F. Mohler, Textile Fabrics and Their Selection, 8th ed. (1984); and Sara J. Kadolph et al., Textiles, 7th ed. (1993). Helpful dictionaries of the textile industry are George E. Linton (ed.), The Modern Textile and Apparel Dictionary, 4th rev., enlarged ed. (1973); Isabel B. Wingate (ed.), Fairchild's Dictionary of Textiles, 6th ed. (1979); M.C. Tubbs and P.N. Daniels (eds.), Textile Terms and Definitions, 9th ed., rev. and enlarged (1991); and Judith Jerde, Encyclopedia of Textiles (1992).Treatments of the history and development of the textile industry are found in Textile Institute (Manchester, England) and Society Of Dyers And Colourists, Review of Textile Progress, 18 vol. (1949–67); Adèle Coulin Weibel, Two Thousand Years of Textiles (1952, reissued 1972); Kax Wilson, A History of Textiles (1979); David J. Jeremy, Transatlantic Industrial Revolution: The Diffusion of Textile Technologies Between Britain and America, 1790–1830s (1981); and Jennifer Harris (ed.), Textiles, 5,000 Years: An International History and Illustrated Survey (1993). Annette B. Weiner and Jane Schneider (eds.), Cloth and Human Experience (1989), is a collection of essays covering textile history and production in various societies. Late-20th-century developments and legislation are explored in William R. Cline, The Future of World Trade in Textiles and Apparel, rev. ed. (1990); Carl B. Hamilton (ed.), Textiles Trade and the Developing Countries: Eliminating the Multi-fibre Arrangement in the 1990s (1990); Ashoka Mody and David Wheeler, Automation and World Competition: New Technologies, Industrial Location, and Trade (1990); Chloë Colchester, The New Textiles: Trends and Traditions (1991); Saha Dhevan Meyanathan (ed.), Managing Restructuring in the Textile and Garment Subsector: Examples from Asia (1994); and Kitty G. Dickerson, Textiles and Apparel in the Global Economy, 2nd ed. (1995).Textile quality control is discussed in Elliot B. Grover and D.S. Hamby, Handbook of Textile Testing and Quality Control (1960); British Standards Institution, Methods of Test for Textiles, 4th ed. (1974); Society Of Dyers And Colourists, Standard Methods for the Determination of the Colour Fastness of Textiles and Leather, 4th ed. (1978); and Annual Book of ASTM Standards, section 7, Textiles, published by the American Society for Testing and Materials. Specific fibres, their processing, and their characteristics are surveyed in Herbert R. Mauersberger (ed.), Matthews' Textile Fibers, 6th ed. (1954); Jack J. Press (ed.), Man-Made Textile Encyclopedia (1959); H.F. Mark, S.M. Atlas, and E. Cernia (eds.), Man-Made Fibers: Science and Technology, 3 vol. (1967–68); R.W. Moncrieff, Man-Made Fibres, 6th ed. (1975); and J. Gordon Cook, Handbook of Textile Fibres, 5th ed., 2 vol. (1984).Works treating yarn and fabric production include G.R. Wray (ed.), Modern Yarn Production from Man-Made Fibres (and Their Conversion Into Fabrics) (1960, reissued 1976); V. Duxbury and G.R. Wray (eds.), Modern Developments in Weaving Machinery (1962); Harry Wignall, Knitting (1964); Radko Krčma, Nonwoven Textiles (1967; originally published in Czech, 1962); A.T.C. Robinson and R. Marks, Woven Cloth Construction (1967, reissued 1973); P.R. Lord (ed.), Spinning in the '70s (1970); D.G.B. Thomas, An Introduction to Warp Knitting (1976); P.R. Lord and M.H. Mohamed, Weaving: Conversion of Yarn to Fabric, 2nd ed. (1982); and F. Happey (ed.), Contemporary Textile Engineering (1982).Textile chemistry in preparation and finishing is discussed in Menachem Lewin and Stephen B. Sello (eds.), Handbook of Fiber Science and Technology (1983– ); and John E. Nettles, Handbook of Chemical Specialties: Textile Fiber Processing, Preparation, and Bleaching (1983).Treatments of the dyeing and printing of textiles include Thomas Vickerstaff, The Physical Chemistry of Dyeing, 2nd ed. rev. (1954); A.J. Hall, A Handbook of Textile Dyeing and Printing (1955); Hans Urs Schmidlin, Preparation and Dyeing of Synthetic Fibres (1963; originally published in German, 1958); S.R. Cockett, Dyeing and Printing (1964); L.W.C. Miles, Textile Printing (1971, reissued 1981); C.L. Bird, The Theory and Practice of Wool Dyeing, 4th ed. (1972); Joyce Storey, The Thames and Hudson Manual of Dyes and Fabrics (1978); and E.R. Trotman, Dyeing and Chemical Technology of Textile Fibres, 6th ed. (1984).Periodicals and trade papers concerned with the textile industry include Journal of the Textile Institute (bimonthly); Textile Progress (quarterly); and Textile World (irregular).Charles S. Whewell Edward Noah Abrahart Ed.

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