Mallory, George

Mallory, George

▪ British explorer and mountaineer
in full  George Herbert Leigh Mallory 
born June 18, 1886, Mobberley, Cheshire, England
died June 8, 1924, North Face of Mount Everest, Tibet [now in China]

      British explorer and mountaineer (mountaineering) who was a leading member of early expeditions to Mount Everest (Everest, Mount). His disappearance on that mountain in 1924 became one of the most celebrated mysteries of the 20th century.

      Mallory came from a long line of clergymen. While he was a student at Winchester College, one of the teachers recruited Mallory for an outing to the Alps, and he developed a strong aptitude for climbing. After graduating from the University of Cambridge, he became a schoolmaster, but he continued to refine his climbing skills in the Alps and in Wales. Other climbers of the era noted his natural, catlike climbing ability and his ability to find and conquer new and difficult routes.

      Mallory served in France during World War I. He resumed teaching after returning to England in 1919. He had been a longtime member of Britain's prestigious Alpine Club; when the club began assembling members for the first major expedition to Mount Everest, Mallory was a natural choice.

      The 1921 Everest expedition was mainly for reconnaissance, and the team had to first locate Everest before it could trek to and then around the mountain's base. Mallory and his old school friend Guy Bullock mapped out a likely route to the summit of Everest from the northern (Tibetan) side. In September the party attempted to climb the mountain, but high winds turned them back at the valley that came to be called the North Col.

      Mallory also was part of the second expedition, mounted in 1922, which featured the major innovation of using supplemental (bottled) oxygen on some of the ascents. Mallory and his team climbed without supplemental oxygen and reached a height of 27,300 feet (8,230 metres) but could go no farther. A second attempt a few days later ended disastrously when his party was caught in an avalanche that killed seven porters.

      In 1924 Mallory was selected for the third expedition, though he was less certain about returning. Before he left he was asked why climbers struggled to scale Everest, to which he gave the famous reply, “Because it's there.” The expedition had a difficult time with high winds and deep snows. On June 6 he and a young and less-experienced climber, Andrew Irvine, set off for an attempt on the summit. The two started out from their last camp at 26,800 feet (8,170 metres) on the morning of June 8. Another member of the expedition claimed to have caught a glimpse of the men climbing in the early afternoon when the mists briefly cleared. Mallory and Irvine were never seen again. The British public was shocked at Mallory's loss.

      The mystery of their fateful climb has been debated since that day, especially whether Mallory and Irvine had reached the summit. In the 1930s Irvine's ice axe was found at about 27,700 feet (8,440 metres), and in 1975 a Chinese climber discovered a body that he described as being that of an Englishman. In addition, an oxygen canister from the 1920s was found in 1991. With these clues, an expedition set out in 1999 to search for the two. Mallory's body was found at 26,760 feet (8,155 metres), and it was determined that he had died after a bad fall; Irvine was not found. It was hoped that the camera Mallory had with him would be recovered and that it might reveal if he and Irvine had made it to the top. Effects such as an altimeter, pocketknife, and letters were found but no camera. His body was buried where it had been discovered.

* * *

Universalium. 2010.

Игры ⚽ Поможем написать курсовую

Look at other dictionaries:

  • George Mallory — George Herbert Leigh Mallory George Mallory Born 18 June 1886(1886 06 18) Mobberley, Cheshire, England Died …   Wikipedia

  • George Mallory — George Herbert Leigh Mallory (* 18. Juni 1886 in Mobberley, Cheshire, England; lange verschollen; † ab 8. Juni 1924 bei dem Versuch, den Mount Everest zu besteigen) war ein englischer Bergsteiger. Seine Leiche wurde 1999 am Everest von einem… …   Deutsch Wikipedia

  • George Mallory — George Herbert Leigh Mallory, né le 18 juin 1886 à Mobberley dans le comté de Cheshire, et aperçu pour la dernière fois le 8 juin 1924 sur la crête nord de l Everest, était un alpiniste britannique. Dans une conférence à New York, il a répondu …   Wikipédia en Français

  • Mallory — Mallory, George (1887 1924) a British mountain climber, who died while attempting to climb Mount Everest. In 1999 his body was found 2,000 feet from the top of the mountain. Some people believe that he and another climber, Andrew Irvine, were the …   Dictionary of contemporary English

  • George Leigh Mallory — Montañero y explorador inglés Nacimiento …   Wikipedia Español

  • George A. Smathers — George Smathers. George Armistead Smathers (* 14. November 1913 in Atlantic City, New Jersey; † 20. Januar 2007 in Miami Beach, Florida) war ein US amerikanischer Jurist und Politiker. Zweimal – 1946 und 1948 wurde er als Abgeordneter der …   Deutsch Wikipedia

  • George Armistead Smathers — George Smathers. George Armistead Smathers (* 14. November 1913 in Atlantic City, New Jersey; † 20. Januar 2007 in Miami Beach, Florida) war ein US amerikanischer Jurist und Politiker. Zweimal – 1946 und 1948 wurde er als Abgeordneter der …   Deutsch Wikipedia

  • George Ingle Finch — (* 4. August 1888 in Australien; † 22. November 1970) war ein australischer Chemiker und Bergsteiger. Er wuchs im deutschsprachigen Teil der Schweiz auf und studierte später Physik an der Universität Genf. Zwischen 1936 und 1952 hatte er eine… …   Deutsch Wikipedia

  • Mallory — ist der Familienname folgender Personen: Boots Mallory (1913–1958), US amerikanische Schauspielerin Caitlin Mallory (* 1987), estnisch US amerikanische Eiskunstläuferin Carole Mallory (* 1942), US amerikanische Schauspielerin Edward Mallory… …   Deutsch Wikipedia

  • George Kenneth Mallory — (1900 1986) was an American physician. [WhoNamedIt|doctor|931] Mallory Weiss syndrome is named for him.Frank Burr Mallory (1862 1941), for whom the Mallory body is named, was his father.References …   Wikipedia

Share the article and excerpts

Direct link
Do a right-click on the link above
and select “Copy Link”