Rio de Janeiro

/ree"oh day zheuh nair"oh, -near"oh, jeuh-, dee, deuh/; Port. /rddee"oo di zhi nay"rddoo/

a seaport in SE Brazil: former capital. 5,184,292. Also called Rio.

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City (pop., 2002 est.: city, 5,937,300; metro. area, 11,121,300) and port, southeastern Brazil.

The site was founded by the Portuguese in the early 16th century and became important in the 18th century as an outlet for mineral exports from gold and diamond mines. Located on one of the largest harbours in the world and known for its scenic views, it was the capital of Brazil from 1822 to 1960, when the national capital was moved to Brasília. It is the country's second largest manufacturing centre after São Paulo. Major industries include metallurgy and food processing. Noted for its wide streets, public buildings, beaches (see Copacabana), and public parks and gardens, it is a leading tourist and resort centre.

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▪ Brazil

Introduction

in full  Cidade de São Sebastião do Rio de Janeiro , byname  Rio  

 city and port, capital of the estado (state) of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. It is located on the Atlantic Ocean, in the southeastern part of the tropical zone of South America, and is widely recognized as one of the world's most beautiful and interesting urban centres. Although Rio de Janeiro continues to be the preeminent icon of Brazil in the eyes of many in the world, in reality its location, architecture, inhabitants, and lifestyle make it highly unique when compared with other Brazilian cities, especially the country's capital of Brasília or the much larger city of São Paulo.The former is a much smaller city dating back only to the 1960s, while the latter is a huge, sprawling commercial and manufacturing centre with none of Rio's spectacular natural beauty or captivating charm. Unlike Rio, both are located on flat interior plateaus.

      The name was given to the city's original site by Portuguese navigators who arrived on Jan. 1, 1502, and mistook the entrance of the bay for the mouth of a river (rio is the Portuguese word for “river” and janeiro the word for “January”). When the foundations of the future town were laid in 1565, it was named Cidade de São Sebastião do Rio de Janeiro (“City of St. Sebastian of Rio de Janeiro”) for both São Sebastião and Dom Sebastião, king of Portugal.

      Rio de Janeiro became the colonial capital in 1763 and was the capital of independent Brazil from 1822 until 1960, when the national capital was moved to the new city of Brasília; the territory constituting the former Federal District was converted into Guanabara state, which formed an enclave in Rio de Janeiro state. In March 1975 the two states were fused as the state of Rio de Janeiro. The city of Rio de Janeiro became one of the 14 municipalities of the Metropolitan Region of Rio de Janeiro, or Greater Rio, and was designated the capital of the reorganized state. Despite loss of the status, funding, and employment it had enjoyed as Brazil's capital, Rio de Janeiro not only survived but thrived as a commercial and financial centre, as well as a tourist magnet. Area city, 485 square miles (1,255 square km); Greater Rio, 2,079 square miles (5,384 square km). Pop. (2006 est.) city, 6,136,652; (2005 est.) Greater Rio, 11,570,524.

Character of the city

 Rio de Janeiro is well known for the beauty of its beaches and of its peaks, ridges, and hills—all partly covered by tropical forests. The city is a centre of leisure for Brazilian and foreign tourists, and people wearing bathing suits can be seen walking in the streets and along the beaches or traveling on the city's buses. Perhaps at no time is the city's festive reputation better displayed than during the annual pre-Lenten carnival, which enlivens the city night and day with music, singing, parties, balls, and street parades of brilliantly costumed dancers performing to samba rhythms. Rio is also an important economic centre, however, with activities ranging from industry and national and international trade to administration, banking, education, culture, and research.

      The city's economic and social prominence grew in the 18th century after it became the main trade centre for the gold- and diamond-mining areas of nearby Minas Gerais. Later its status as a national capital and as the royal residence of the Portuguese monarch influenced Rio's continued growth and helped it acquire a cosmopolitan atmosphere and a national character, free of regional conflict. After the city was relegated to being a state capital in the mid-20th century, however, a new regional consciousness began to develop. While São Paulo became entrenched as Brazil's economic heartland and Brasília strengthened its position as the political hub, residents of Rio increasingly prided themselves on being the country's cultural centre and Brazil's most salient symbol to the rest of the world.

Landscape

City site

 Rio de Janeiro lies on a strip of Brazil's Atlantic coast, close to the Tropic of Capricorn (Cancer and Capricorn, Tropics of), where the shoreline is oriented east-west; the city largely faces south. It was founded on an inlet of this stretch of the coast, Guanabara Bay (Baía de Guanabara), the entrance to which is marked by a point of land called Sugar Loaf (Pão de Açúcar), a “calling card” of the city.

      The Centre (Centro), the core of Rio, lies on the plains of the western shore of Guanabara Bay. The greater portion of the city—commonly referred to as the North Zone (Zona Norte)—extends to the northwest on plains composed of marine and continental sediments and on hills and several rocky mountains. The South Zone (Zona Sul) of the city, reaching the beaches fringing the open sea, is cut off from the Centre and from the North Zone by coastal mountains. These mountains and hills are offshoots of the Serra do Mar (Mar, Serra do) to the northwest, an ancient gneiss-granite mountain chain that forms the southern slopes of the Brazilian Highlands. The large West Zone (Zona Oeste), long cut off by the mountainous terrain, had been made accessible by new roads and tunnels by the end of the 20th century.

Climate

      Although the region's climate is generally tropical, hot, and humid, the climate of Greater Rio is strongly affected by its topography, its proximity to the ocean, and the shape of the Southern Cone of South America. Along the coast, the breeze, blowing alternately onshore and offshore, modifies the temperature. Because of its geographic situation, the city is often reached—especially during autumn and winter—by cold fronts advancing from Antarctica, which cause frequent weather changes. But it is mostly in summer that strong showers may provoke catastrophic floods and landslides. The mountainous areas register greater rainfall since they constitute a barrier to the humid wind that comes from the Atlantic. The highest rainfall rate is found in the urban district of Jardim Botânico (more than 63 inches [1,600 mm]), where nearby coastal mountains trap humid winds from the Atlantic.

      The temperature varies according to elevation, distance from the coast, and type of vegetation. Winter (June–September) is particularly pleasant, both because of its mild temperatures and because it is, in general, less rainy than the summer (December–March), which is hotter as well. The annual average temperature at Rio is about 73 °F (23 °C).

City layout

      The core of the city of Rio de Janeiro is the Centre, and the core of its large metropolitan area is the South Zone. The North Zone is a heavily populated industrial centre, while the now-accessible West Zone is the site of much of the city's more recent growth.

Centre

      The Centre corresponds approximately to the old city and is referred to as Cidade (Portuguese: “City” or “Downtown”). However, few colonial-era buildings or monuments remain, owing to a series of remodeling and modernizing efforts. Included in these changes were the demolition of old buildings and their replacement with larger and higher structures; the leveling of hills and the filling of lagoons, swamps, and stretches of the sea; the enlarging of streets and avenues for automobile traffic; and the construction of new infrastructure, such as the port, rebuilt in 1907.

      The Centre contains a number of buildings with styles that reflect these historical remodeling phases; hence, buildings from different eras and of various architectural styles are juxtaposed with one another. The Municipal Theatre, built at the beginning of the 20th century and still the main national theatre, is almost a replica of the Paris Opera House. The Ministry of Education building (1936), conceived by International-style innovator Le Corbusier (Corbusier, Le) and Brazilian architects, represents the Modernismo movement in Brazilian architecture of the 1930s, while the headquarters of the Bank of Brazil is an example of an International-style high-rise building. Two- or three-story houses, built at the turn of the 20th century and resembling those of some areas of Lisbon, compete for space with historical monuments, 8- to 12-story buildings constructed before the 1940s, 20- to 30-story buildings of the post-World War II era, and skyscrapers of more than 40 stories constructed since the 1970s.

      One of the most opportune areas of the Centre for observing this juxtaposition of architectural styles is Praça 15 de Novembro—or Praça Quinze, as it is also known—a historic plaza on the city's colonial-era waterfront that was substantially renovated in 1997. It is bordered on the south by the well-preserved Carmo Convent and adjoining church (which once served as the palace of King John VI) and the modernistic black glass skyscraper towers of Cândido Mendes University that loom as its backdrop. The Imperial Palace (Paco Imperial), a restored colonial-era structure, lies on the southeast edge of the plaza, while across the busy square is the 20th-century-era building that once housed the Rio de Janeiro Stock Exchange and now serves as a financial museum. Half a block to the southeast of the plaza lies the imposing Palácio Tiradentes, home to the state legislature and an example of Neoclassical-style architecture, while just a few blocks farther southeast is the home of the Brazilian Academy of Letters, itself only three blocks from the mid-20th-century Modern Art Museum. Along the way from Praça 15 de Novembro to the sprawling museum are monumental government buildings of the 1930s mixed with much-newer courthouses, as well as Santos-Dumont Airport, which was built on landfill out into the bay.

      Northwest of the museum is Monroe Palace, the old senate building, which lies next to the wrought iron fences and lush foliage of the spacious Passeio Público park and gardens, an 18th-century recreation area that was thoroughly renovated in the early 21st century. A few blocks in the same direction, past the white arches of an 18th-century aqueduct, stands the modernistic cone of the Metropolitan Cathedral, with its spectacular 200-feet- (60-metre- ) high stained glass windows. Just to its north stand dramatically designed modern buildings, such as those that are home to Petrobrás and the National Economic and Social Development Bank. On a hill above them looms the Baroque São Antônio Convent, which overlooks the bustling interaction of vehicles and pedestrians in the Largo da Carioca. This lower area, filled with peddlers' stalls and street vendors, is tucked behind tall skyscrapers lining the midstretch of busy Avenida Rio Branco, the spine of Rio's Centre. Narrow streets dating from colonial times lead from this wide boulevard west to Praça Quinze.

      A few blocks south on Avenida Rio Branco is the National Museum of Fine Arts (Museu Nacional de Belas Artes), an example of French Neoclassical design. Across the street sits the Municipal Theatre, and a block down is its architectural sister, the National Library. The historic Municipal Legislature building, opposite the library, is on the edge of Cinelandia, a strip of sidewalk cafés, bars, restaurants, and cinemas extending down to the corner of the aforementioned Passeio Público.

      Turning north instead of south from Largo da Carioca, several blocks of stores and dining establishments along narrow, virtually vehicle-free streets lead to the historic Our Lady of Candelaria Church and the massive bank buildings at the east end of the Avenida Getúlio Vargas, a wide, multiple-lane thoroughfare that runs west from the bay, beyond the limits of the Centre. Five blocks farther north, dramatically atop a hill, looms the imposing São Bento Monastery, site of one of Brazil's outstanding parochial schools; just to its west lies Praça Mauá—a plaza that is home to businesses, government offices, and waterfront bars—and also the northern end of Avenida Rio Branco.

      A short distance west of Largo da Carioca lies Praça Tiradentes and the João Caetano Theatre. Three streets farther is the spacious Campo de Santana, a park that extends north to Avenida Getúlio Vargas, where its corner becomes the Praça da República. The historic War Ministry building, Dom Pedro II Station, and Itamaraty Palace—a restored colonial structure that was once home to Brazil's foreign ministry and is now a museum—are nearby.

      A few blocks west of Campo de Santana is the long stretch of low-lying white buildings housing elementary schools for most of the year but briefly serving as the elongated stadium holding some 60,000 spectators for the Carnival competition among the largest escolas (in function, essentially community samba associations), each involving thousands of costumed dancers and musicians. At the north end of this stadium, popularly called sambódromo, is the monument to 17th century Afro-Brazilian hero Zumbi dos Palmares.

South Zone

      South of the Centre are a host of other scenic attractions. Over or around the picturesque hilltop district of Santa Teresa, with its narrow, winding streets still reached from the Centre by trolley, sits Laranjeiras Palace, the Rio residence of Brazil's president, in beautiful Parque Guinle. Guanabara Palace, the residence of Rio de Janeiro state's governor, is close by. Little more than a half mile to the east is Catete Palace. Once referred to as Brazil's White House—where Brazil's presidents worked when Rio was the capital of the country—it is now home to the Museum of the Republic. To its immediate north is the Largo da Glória, dramatically overlooked by Our Lady of Glória Church and flanked by São Joaquim Palace and a steep road leading up into Santa Teresa.

 Below these sights and a bit to the east is Flamengo beach, bordered by a beautifully landscaped extension of the parklike landfill that stretches back to the Centre. Flamengo, as the district is called, ends with the rocky protuberance of Widow's Hill (Morro da Viuva), which marks the west side of breathtaking Botafogo Bay, whose eastern shore is dominated by Urca Hill and the even more spectacular Sugar Loaf Mountain (1,296 feet [395 metres] high). Inland to the west in the Cosme Velho neighbourhood lies the beginning of the funicular railroad to Mount Corcovado (Corcovado, Mount) (2,310 feet [704 metres]) and the massive statue of Christ the Redeemer that crowns it. (The summit is also accessible via a road up Corcovado's back side.)

      Rio's mountains hem in the district of Botafogo, the shape of which resembles a reclining figure. Its head is on the beach, one arm stretches back toward Laranjeiras, and the other is draped along the bay to Red Beach (Praia Vermelha), the home of the National War College and the Army Staff and Command School, at the foot of Urca and Sugar Loaf. Botafogo's body extends inland past such tourist sights as the Casa de Ruí Barbosa; the Indian, Theatre, and Villa-Lobos museums; the City Palace; and the few remaining former ambassadorial residences along Rua São Clemente. One leg is doubled up against Corcovado, while the other stretches toward the scenic Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon with its toes pointing toward the National Fine Arts Museum in Lage Park. To the north of the lagoon—popularly called Lagoa—lies the Jardim Botânico district, which takes its name from Rio's justifiably famous Botanical Garden (Rio de Janeiro Botanical Garden).

 The west edge of this large tidal-filled lagoon leads past Rio's imposing Jockey Club to the upper-middle-class district of Gávea, home to Pontifical Catholic University. Curving south and then east, the shore marks the back side of the posh residential districts of Leblon and Ipanema to the south, with their exceptional beaches and opulent oceanside apartments and luxury hotels. Ipanema becomes less affluent as it merges eastward past Arpoador Point to Fort Copacabana, the west end of the famed tourist district of that name. As it sweeps east, “Copa” develops an inland salient connecting it to Botafogo's waist and a thin arm reaching through tunnels to Botafogo's shoulder. Beyond the busy Avenida Princesa Isabel, the area's short eastern continuance takes on the name Leme. Along beachfront Avenida Atlántica, tall modern apartment buildings coexist with tourist hotels and sidewalk bars and cafés.

North Zone

      Although the lower edge of the North Zone is close in proximity to the Centre and the South Zone, travel between the areas is accomplished only with difficulty and delay, because of the mountainous ridge that runs east-west. Starting at Cosme Velho and Laranjeiras and ending miles beyond Gávea and Leblon, most of this rocky backbone is incorporated in Tijuca National Park.

      The generally middle-class district of Tijuca in the North Zone has its commercial centre at the Praça Saéz Peña, from which the subway begins its long horseshoe-shaped trajectory east to and through the Centre, then back south and southwest via Botafogo to its western terminus. To the west and north of Tijuca are the districts of Andaraí, Vila Isabel, and Maracanã, the latter home to Rio's famed stadium of the same name. In the east, Tijuca runs toward the Centre through the districts of Rio Comprido, Catumbí, and Estácio. Tijuca then climbs southeastward to the heart of Tijuca National Park, the Alto da Boa Vista, where there are several waterfalls and spectacular vantage points that provide extraordinary views of the city sprawled out far below: by day a colourful tapestry of topography and roofs, at night thousands of lights that gleam like diamonds on a black velvet cloth.

      North of Maracanã, in the historical district of São Cristóvão, is the Quinta da Boa Vista, a park that is home to the National Museum and Rio's renowned zoo. The former, originally the imperial palace, overlooks the Museum of the First Empire. North of this is the road leading to the long crossbay bridge to Niterói. Avenida Brasil continues north past these features toward the city's immense industrial suburbs, passing a causeway that provides access to both the small island housing the Federal University of Rio de Janeiro and Governador Island, site of Galeão-Antonio Carlos Jobim International Airport. Along the route are the city's only large flatland slums, the favelas, constructed on low-lying marshes.

      Many more people dwell in the remote districts of Rio's North Zone. Railways and streetcar lines heavily influenced the development of the North's original settlement, which progressed in tentacular form. During the mid-20th century, as bus service became the main form of urban mass transportation, the areas between the “tentacles” were settled. Commercial and service activities were established around the squares where traffic was concentrated. Tijuca and Meier emerged as important local centres; more-distant neighbourhoods later followed suit. Farther north, the more populous districts of Madureira, Mangueira, Ramos, and Padre Miguel have acquired an increasing proportion of the city's light industry, mixed in with housing and service businesses.

West Zone

      During the 1970s and '80s, Rio expanded rapidly to the west, along the coast. Following Avenida Niemayer from the end of Leblon and the Dois Irmãos tunnel out from Gávea, an upwardly mobile younger generation of professionals found suburban-style luxury in the neighbourhoods of São Conrado and Barra da Tijuca. An international autodrome, a convention centre, and ultramodern enclosed shopping malls served as magnets for a burgeoning number of gated high-rise apartment communities with their own schools, clubs, and boutiques.

      With the opening in the late 1990s of the Yellow Line Highway—running west from Governador Island, with tunnels piercing the mountainous barrier—the large inland area beyond Tijuca was opened up. As the population expanded beyond Jacarepaguá, new arrivals to the West Zone flowed farther northwest, toward Santa Cruz and Campo Grande. Many more established residence farther out along the coast, first reaching Guaratiba, then pushing toward the port at Sepetiba. Hence, Rio and its suburbs came to extend even farther west than they already had north.

Suburbs

      The suburban zone inside the municipality of Rio de Janeiro extends 12 miles (20 km) north from the Centre; still more suburbs are found in neighbouring municipalities. Indeed, these areas have experienced the most rapid growth of the metropolitan region since the 1950s, owing more to migrations from the interior of the state and other states than to natural increase. Most residents of the suburbs are poor, but each suburb contains areas of relative prosperity and modern facilities. Single-family houses dominate, although the number of apartment buildings has grown rapidly. Government housing programs of the 1960s attempted to relocate inhabitants of the favelas of the Centre and North Zone to the suburbs, but the population resisted being moved from areas that were in close proximity to their places of work. Programs since then have concentrated on rebuilding the favelas proper. Still, such programs have done little to stem the growth of the North Zone suburbs.

      Among the major suburbs of Greater Rio, each with a population of several hundred thousand, Nova Iguaçu and São João de Meriti lie to the northwest along the route to São Paulo; Belford Roxo and Duque de Caxias (also home to a major oil refinery) are situated to the north. Along with smaller cities such as Nilópolis, these suburbs are known collectively as the Baixada (Portuguese: “Lowland”) and were once small rural centres that grew tremendously after being linked by rail to Rio proper. Farther to the north of Rio de Janeiro city atop the escarpment is the satellite of Petrópolis, once the summer residence of the Brazilian royal family and former capital of Rio de Janeiro state (1894–1903). Located in the highlands at an elevation of 2,667 feet (813 metres), it is a summer tourist resort as well as a centre of light industry. Many weekend and vacation homes have been built between Petropólis and Rio's industrial suburbs.

      On the east shore of Guanabara Bay lies the major urban agglomeration, with a population of more than one million, that includes Niterói, a former capital of the state of Rio de Janeiro, and the much larger São Gonçalo. Commuting to and from Rio de Janeiro is via the Rio-Niterói Bridge and by ferries, motorboats, and hydrofoils. Motorboat service also links Rio to the resort island of Paquetá, which lies near the middle of the bay. Industries in Niterói-São Gonçalo include shipyards and textile, food-processing, and metallurgy plants. Magé stands at the head of the bay, separate from both the northern and crossbay suburbs.

People

      Rio's inhabitants (called Cariocas, after the Tupi Indian word meaning “white man's home”) represent a microcosm of Brazil's ethnic diversity and include people of European, African, and mixed ancestry. In Brazil, people of African descent (referred to as “Afro-Brazilians” by outside scholars) can be further characterized using such terms as pardos and pretos; the latter term is used to refer to those with the darkest skin colour. Although skin colour is largely the basis of the distinction between pardo and preto, it is a distinction that is subjective as well as objective, and it is self-attributed. Many Brazilians of colour consider it more advantageous to identify themselves as pardos and therefore do so. About one-third of Rio's pardos are clearly mulattoes (mulatos; people of mixed African and European ancestry), while the vast majority of the city's small preto population do not claim any known European ancestry. Cariocas are primarily Roman Catholic, although many simultaneously observe the practices of the Umbanda religion (see Macumba).

      People of European ancestry live predominantly in the affluent neighbourhoods of Flamengo, Copacabana, Ipanema-Leblon, Jardim Botânico, and Gávea in the South Zone; in Tijuca in the North Zone; and stretching from Barra da Tijuca past Recreio dos Bandeirantes in the West Zone. The northern suburbs, in contrast, contain much larger proportions of mulattoes, as do many districts of the North Zone. The heaviest concentrations of pardos and pretos are found in Rio's favelas, regardless of location. The rich mosaic of areas of the North Zone are socially differentiated by the average level of income of their inhabitants, closely reflected in the urban infrastructure and public services that are locally available. While the ring of neighbourhoods closest to the Centre is deteriorated, the next ring contains more-prosperous areas. Farther out, however, poverty increases. Both distance from the Centre and elevation serve as determining factors for the location of favelas, since they have been established on all available steep hillsides as well as in undesirable swampy lowlands throughout the Greater Rio area.

      Historically, Rio's population grew primarily as a result of domestic migration, which in some years accounted for two-thirds of the city's increase, although many people immigrated from European countries as well. Government policies began restricting foreign immigration in the 1930s, causing the proportion of foreigners in the former Federal District to decline from 30 percent in 1890 to 7 percent in 1960. By that time, almost half of the city's population were Brazilian migrants, most of them born in the states of Rio de Janeiro, Minas Gerais, and Espírito Santo. The largest groups of foreign-born immigrants in the Greater Rio area included those from Portugal, Italy, and Spain.

      The 1950s were Rio's decade of greatest proportional growth, with the city expanding by nearly 40 percent and the suburbs almost doubling. However, with the transfer of the national capital to Brasília in 1960, the rhythm of population growth in the city declined. Most internal migrants were directed to other municipalities of the metropolitan region, leaving Rio to rely more on the birth rate within its own boundaries. Still, the city's population grew steadily and did not begin to taper off until the 1990s, when Rio's limited space—then near saturation—served to restrict further growth. With improved access to the West Zone beginning in the late 20th century, growth again began to pick up.

      At the beginning of the 21st century, more than four decades since Rio ceased to be the national capital, a large proportion of federal employees were still based there, along with tens of thousands of state and city workers. Moreover, retirees from public service jobs continued to constitute a significant element of Rio's population.

Economy

      Rio de Janeiro possesses a robust and highly diversified economy, providing large-scale employment in heavy and light industry, manufacturing, commerce, finance, trade, and other service sectors.

Manufacturing

      Greater Rio is Brazil's second most important industrial area, trailing only São Paulo. A newer electronics and computer sector has been added to the older industries of metallurgy, engineering, and printing and publishing. Other manufacturing sectors focus on the production of shipyard-related materials, apparel and footwear, textiles, nonmetallic mineral products, food and beverages, chemicals, and pharmaceuticals. Construction, also an important activity, provides a significant source of employment for large numbers of unskilled workers and is buoyed by the number of seasonal residents who build second homes in the Greater Rio area.

      To attract industry, the state government has designated certain areas on the outskirts of the city as industrial districts where infrastructure is provided and land sales are made under special conditions. Oil and natural gas from fields off the northern coast of Rio de Janeiro state are a major asset used for developing manufacturing activities in Rio's metropolitan area, enabling it to compete with other major cities for new investment in industry.

Finance and other services

      Because it was once the national capital, Rio de Janeiro was chosen as the site for the headquarters of many private, national, multinational, and state corporations, even when their factories were located in other cities or states. Despite the transfer of the capital to Brasília, many of these headquarters remained within the Rio metropolitan area, including those of Petrobrás, the state oil company, and the National Economic and Social Development Bank, a federal investment bank.

      As with manufacturing, Rio is an important financial centre, second only to São Paulo in volume of business in financial markets and in banking. Its securities market, although declining in significance relative to São Paulo, is still of major importance. Owing to the proximity of Rio's port facilities, many of Brazil's export-import companies are headquartered in the city.

      In Greater Rio, which has one of the highest per capita incomes in Brazil, retail trade is substantial. Many of the most important retail stores are located in the Centre, but others are scattered throughout the commercial areas of the other districts, where shopping centres, supermarkets, and other retail businesses handle a large volume of consumer trade.

 Rio is one of the premier tourist destinations in the world. The city's vibrant culture and many museums, historical sites, and physical features—especially the beaches of Copacabana and Ipanema—attract large crowds of visitors, as do events and festivals such as the annual Carnival and New Year's Eve celebrations.

Transportation

      The Greater Rio area is an important centre for air services in Brazil, with flights to the world's major cities. Airports include Galeão-Antonio Carlos Jobim, which offers domestic and international services, and Santos-Dumont. The port of Rio has a large market area and is among the country's leading ports by tons moved.

      Most surface transport with other places is negotiated by bus, truck, and automobile; railways link the region to São Paulo and Belo Horizonte, but their daily service is somewhat limited. Privately owned bus services are the main means of public transportation inside the urban agglomeration. The city began building its subway in 1972, and by 1979 the first station was opened as an initial step in the development of an underground system aimed at alleviating Rio's serious traffic congestion. Though efficient, the system is less comprehensive than that of São Paulo or major metropolitan areas in the Northern Hemisphere.

Administration and society

Government

      The municipality of Rio de Janeiro is governed by a mayor (prefeito) with the assistance of secretaries who head administrative departments. Since 1984 the mayor has been popularly elected to a four-year term. Legislative power is held by the members of the Municipal Chamber, who are simultaneously elected at large through a system of proportional representation. The same pattern holds for all the other municipalities of Greater Rio. As the state capital and home to a large proportion of the state's population and wealth, Rio has a government that wields almost as much power as the state government. The state governor and the mayor of the Rio municipality are elected in alternate even-number years. They are often political rivals; Brazil's form of federalism involves significant central government funding of both state and municipal activities, so the governor and the mayor often compete for largesse from Brasília. The outcome generally depends upon their political relationship with the president.

Municipal services

      As frequently happens in rapidly developing metropolitan areas, Rio faces serious difficulties in providing urban services and facilities, especially in the fast-growing suburban areas. The water supply and sewer system belong to a state company, and a state-owned company also provides municipal gas supplies. The water supply system was upgraded during the 1960s, and efforts have been ongoing to extend the water and sewerage infrastructure to new urbanized areas and to the favelas.

      Telephone operations were greatly enhanced following privatization in the late 1990s, and the improved service made great strides in addressing the significant backlog of requests for residential lines. As in other major Brazilian cities, mobile phone usage has surged in Rio. The distribution of electricity, long controlled by a private enterprise that was then purchased by the federal government in the 1970s, was again privatized in the late 1990s, which resulted in a marked improvement in service. Rio is connected to an electrical system that extends throughout south-central Brazil.

Health

      The city generally has a healthful climate. Although pollution has long been a concern, there are no serious health problems, except within the favelas, where diseases related to lack of sanitation, poor diet, and inadequate health facilities prevail. The Rio de Janeiro area as a whole has one of the country's better ratios of population to hospital beds and doctors.

Education

      Primary schools are largely under municipal administration, while the state plays a more significant role in the extensive network of secondary schools. The Greater Rio area is home to many colleges and universities. The Federal University of Brazil and Pontifical Catholic University are among the country's top institutions of higher education. Fluminense Federal University, across the bay in Niterói, also enjoys a good reputation, as do a few of the city's many private nondenominational institutions—most notably, Cândido Mendes University. The very large Estácio de Sá University has branches in almost all parts of the city and suburbs; the State University of Rio de Janeiro is also located in the city. A number of governmental national research centres in Rio de Janeiro conduct studies in fields such as economics, geography and statistics, biology, and physics as well as in public policy.

Cultural life

      As the country's cultural capital, Rio de Janeiro has many prestigious artistic, literary, and scientific institutions. These include the Brazilian Academy of Letters, the Brazilian Academy of Sciences, and numerous museums. Among the museums are the National Museum of Fine Arts, founded in 1818; the National Museum, rich in anthropological objects and located in the former Imperial Palace of the Quinta da Boa Vista; the National Historical Museum; the Museum of Modern Art; and the Indian Museum. The most important of the city's many libraries is the National Library; it was founded in 1810 with the remaining volumes of the Royal Library of Ajuda, which were brought to Brazil from Portugal after the devastating earthquake of 1755 in Lisbon.

      Sizeable auditoriums and concert halls throughout the Greater Rio area are available for popular performing artists, but the chief venue for visiting international orchestras, dance troupes, and soloists is the Municipal Theatre, which also presents performances by local groups. Many of Brazil's leading performing artists make Rio their base when not traveling overseas.

      Rio has a large number of movie theatres, many radio broadcasting stations, and several television stations including the home station and studios of TV Globo, the country's principal network. Many periodicals are published there, and the variety of daily newspapers includes two of national range, the O Globo and Jornal do Brasil. A significant proportion of Brazil's publishing houses are located in Rio.

 Among the picturesque places frequently toured are Mount Corcovado (Corcovado, Mount) and its famous statue of Christ the Redeemer; Sugar Loaf Mountain, which is reached by a funicular railway; the Quinta da Boa Vista, a park in which the Zoological Garden, as well as the National Museum, is located; the Botanical Garden, which dates from 1808 and displays a huge variety of species; and Tijuca National Park, located in Tijuca Forest.

 Rio's world-renowned carnival, the highlight of which is the samba schools parade, lasts for four days each year and attracts many tourists. It is a traditional festival in which the people of the city enthusiastically participate. Samba schools, which serve as community associations, are found throughout the city and are most active during the height of Carnival. Some schools are much more active year-round, including those of the northern districts of Madureira, Mangueira, Ramos, and Padre Miguel, where preparation for the next year's Carnival begins not long after the current year's celebration comes to an end. The principal samba schools also offer performances throughout the year, both in Rio's large tourist-oriented nightclubs and at their own facilities.

      The most popular sport in Rio de Janeiro, as in Brazil as a whole, is football (soccer). Rio's major league teams—Flamengo, Vasco da Gama, Botafogo, and Fluminense—are internationally known. Each team has its own stadium, but the most important matches take place in Rio's renowned Maracanã Stadium, which has a large seating capacity. Volleyball, tennis, and basketball are other popular sports. For several million Cariocas, the city's celebrated beaches are of even greater popularity and use. International auto races are held in the western suburb of Jacarepaguá. Rio was the host of the 2007 Pan American Sport Games (Pan American Sports Games), the Western Hemisphere's quadrennial sporting event.

History

The colonial period

      Several years after the Portuguese first explored Brazil, French traders in search of pau-brasil (a type of brazilwood) reached the rich area extending from the Cape Frio (Frio, Cape) coast to the beaches and islands of Guanabara Bay—the economic and, above all, strategic importance of which was already well-known. On one of these islands, the French founded a colony that was called La France Antarctique (Antarctic France).

      The Portuguese wanted to expel the French from Brazil, and the task was given to Estácio de Sá, a nephew of Gov. Mem de Sá of Brazil, who in 1565 occupied the plain between Dog Face Hill (Morro Cara de Cão) and the Sugar Loaf and Urca mounts, thus laying the foundations of the future town of Rio de Janeiro. After two years (1565–67) of bloody battles, in which Estácio de Sá was killed and the French expelled, Mem de Sá chose a new site for the town, farther inland on the coast of the bay, at the top of the Hill of Rest (Morro do Descanso), or St. Januarius Hill (São Januário), later called the Castle Hill (Morro do Castelo). In 1568 the settlement was laid out in the form of a medieval citadel, protected by a bulwark and cannons.

      The surrounding fertile land, allotted to Portuguese settlers by the Portuguese king in enormous plots called sesmarias, was planted with sugarcane, which was to provide the colony with its main source of income. In 1660 the community became the seat of the government of the southern captaincies (Portuguese administrative units) of Brazil. In the second half of the 17th century, the captaincy population grew to 8,000 inhabitants, two-thirds of whom were probably African slaves and Indians.

      At the beginning of the 18th century, Brazil began to engage in gold and diamond mining, which brought about remarkable changes in the colony's economy and stimulated a great migration from Europe, thereby increasing the number of people of European ancestry. The former village became a town of 24,000 in 1749. When the colonial capital was transferred from Bahia to Rio de Janeiro in 1763, the town expanded farther, far beyond its walls. The remains of the monumental Roman-style aqueduct Arcos (“Arches”) built at this time still stand in the city.

      At the end of the 18th century, the town's economy, as well as that of the colony as a whole, was in a crisis because of the decline of the mines and competition from Central America for the world sugar market. In 1796 the value of exports from Rio's port was less than half of what it had been in 1760.

      Coffee production and the resettlement of the Portuguese royal family in Brazil in 1808 again brought prosperity to the colony. By 1815, when Brazil became a kingdom, Rio de Janeiro was large enough to accommodate a foreign population. At about that time the city's original appearance was being transformed; from 1808 to 1818 some 600 houses and 100 country houses were built, and many older buildings were restored. Many streets were lighted and paved, more land was reclaimed, new roads were opened, and new public fountains were installed. Among new institutions established were the Royal Press, the Royal Library, the Theatre of Saint John, the Academy of Fine Arts, the Botanical Garden, and the Bank of Brazil. When King John VI (John VI) returned to Portugal in 1821, Rio had almost 113,000 inhabitants and 13,500 buildings, and the town had extended both northward and southward. A year later Brazil was independent.

The city after independence

      Expansion of coffee plantations in the state of Rio de Janeiro gave a new impulse to the city's development. Nobles and bourgeois moved their residences north to the São Cristóvão district. Merchants and English bankers chose to live around the Outeiro da Glória and Praia do Flamengo areas in the south, or they established their residences in the nearby Botafogo and Laranjeiras districts. The French, on the other hand, lived in country houses scattered in the Tijuca area farther westward.

      In that era, as Brazil expanded its world export trade in such products as coffee, cotton, sugar, and rubber, the city changed its appearance, and the traces of its colonial past were effaced. In 1829 oxcart traffic was banned from the Rua do Ouvidor, then the city's most elegant street. In 1838 the first public transportation—horse-drawn buses—began to run to the districts of São Cristóvão, Engenho Velho, and Botafogo. In 1868 the first tramcars, also drawn by animals, were introduced. A steamboat service to Niterói began to operate in 1835. The first railroad was built in 1852 to Petrópolis, and a line reached Queimados in the Nova Iguaçú (Nova Iguaçu) area in 1858. In 1854 gas replaced oil for street lighting, and wireless telegraphy was inaugurated. Sewerage was installed in 1864, and telephone service began in 1877.

The republican period

 When Rio de Janeiro, which had formerly been the capital of the empire, became capital of the republic of Brazil in 1889, it was already a considerable community. At the time of the 1890 census, it had more than 520,000 inhabitants on 61 square miles (158 square km), ranking it as the largest city in Brazil and one of the larger cities in the world. The 1891 constitution designated it the Federal District.

      During the federal administration of Pres. Francisco de Paula Rodrigues Alves (Rodrigues Alves, Francisco de Paula), from 1902 to 1906, Rio de Janeiro was further transformed. A team of administrators and technicians drained swamps, cleared slums, paved and widened streets, and markedly improved health conditions, notably by reducing cases of yellow fever and smallpox. The central avenue (called Avenida Rio Branco from 1912), still the most important of the Centre, was opened during that period; Avenida Beira-Mar, running parallel to part of the south shore, was built on reclaimed land; and several other important avenues were opened.

      The population of the Federal District exceeded 1,000,000 by 1920 and increased to 1,750,000 by 1940. During that period the number of industrial establishments in the Federal District nearly trebled. Castle Hill was demolished, land reclamation increased the area in the Centre, and the first skyscrapers appeared. Streetcar lines, now moved by electrical power, multiplied. While settlement spread on the east coast, some areas to the north lost status—such as São Cristóvão, which became an industrial and lower-class residential neighbourhood.

Alberto Passos Guimarães Pedro P. Geiger Ronald Milton Schneider

      In the mid-20th century, metropolitan Rio de Janeiro grew beyond its formerly narrow confines because of immigration from other parts of Brazil, as well as a high rate of natural increase. The suburban population more than tripled to some 1.5 million between 1940 and 1960, at a time when the city proper exceeded 3.3 million. Following the transfer of the national capital to Brasília in 1960, Rio's rate of population growth slowed somewhat, although the suburban population continued to mushroom. By 1980 there were more than 5 million residents in the city and 3.6 million in the suburbs. Although subsequent growth continued at a lesser rate, by the early 21st century the metropolitan population exceeded 11 million, of which nearly half resided in the suburbs.

      Beginning in the latter part of the 20th century, population growth, real estate speculation, and an amplified dependence on automobiles precipitated a series of changes in the city. The highway system was expanded, with improved access to numerous suburban areas; still higher skyscrapers arose in the Centre; and larger residential towers increasingly replaced small apartment buildings and houses. Landowners, the industrial sector, and the financial sector favoured the changes; however, higher rents forced many poorer residents to move from the central city to the periphery or to the rapidly expanding favelas on the steeper hillsides. Meanwhile, many affluent families settled in the southwest, notably in Ipanema and Leblon and at sites farther down the coast.

      Rio has maintained its status as the second largest manufacturing centre in Brazil, after São Paulo. In addition, Rio's service sector remains one of the strongest in the country, providing for increasing numbers of jobs in such areas as finance, communications, tourism and entertainment, public and private education, and computer engineering. Rio remains a major centre for cultural exhibitions and international conferences, and many of the more affluent and influential Brazilians keep homes there. Despite desperate conditions in the city's favelas, as well as high rates of violent crime throughout the city, grave levels of air and water pollution, and myriad other problems, Rio de Janeiro is still widely recognized as one of the world's more beautiful urban centres.

Ronald Milton Schneider

Additional Reading

Comprehensive guidebooks include Mick Day and Ben Box, Rio de Janeiro Handbook: The Travel Guide (2000); Regis St. Louis, Rio de Janeiro, 5th ed. (2006), in the Lonely Planet series; and Amy Karafin (ed.), Fodor's Pocket Rio de Janeiro, 2nd ed. (2002). Urban planning is discussed in Norma Evenson, Two Brazilian Capitals: Architecture and Urbanism in Rio de Janeiro and Brasília (1973). Pedro Pinchas Geiger, Evolução da rêde urbana brasileira (1963); and Julia Adão Bernardes (ed.), Rio de Janeiro, painel de um espaço em crise (1986), are overviews of the city's geography and development.Slums and the urban poor are examined in Janice E. Perlman, The Myth of Marginality: Urban Poverty and Politics in Rio de Janeiro (1976); Julio César Pino, Family and Favela: The Reproduction of Poverty in Rio de Janeiro (1997); and Alma Guillermoprieto, Samba (1990), which describes a year of Carnival preparations in one of Rio's favelas.Historical accounts of the city include Vivaldo Coaracy, O Rio de Janeiro no século dezessete, 2nd ed., rev. and expanded (1965); Mary C. Karasch, Slave Life in Rio de Janeiro, 1808–1850 (1987); Jeffrey D. Needell, A Tropical Belle Epoque: Elite Culture and Society in Turn-of-the-Century Rio de Janeiro (1987); and Teresa A. Meade, “Civilizing” Rio: Reform and Resistance in a Brazilian City, 1889–1930 (1997). Ethnic relations and the myth of Brazil's “racial democracy” are traced in Michael George Hanchard, Orpheus and Power: The Movimento Negro of Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, Brazil, 1945–1988 (1994) and Edward Eric Telles, Race in Another America: The Significance of Skin Color in Brazil (2004). Current social conditions are analyzed in Enrique Desmond Arias, Drugs and Democracy in Rio de Janeiro: Trafficking, Social Networks, and Public Security (2006).Ronald Milton Schneider

▪ state, Brazil

Introduction

      estado (state) of southeastern Brazil, bounded by the states of Espírito Santo (north), Minas Gerais (west), and São Paulo (southwest), while to the east lies the Atlantic Ocean. It is named for the city of Rio de Janeiro, the state capital, which was the capital of Brazil from 1763 to 1960 and remains the nation's main centre for cultural events, leisure, and tourism. It is Brazil's second largest urban centre (after São Paulo city), and it accounts for the bulk of the population of the highly urbanized state. Area 16,871 square miles (43,696 square km). Pop. (2006 est.) 15,561,720.

Physical and human geography

The land

Relief and drainage

      The state's relief has three distinct features: the plain, or coastal lowland; the mountainous highland; and the plateau of the interior. The coastal lowland—which is broken by occasional massifs or rocks that sometimes extend far into the sea—is narrower to the west, where the Serra do Mar (Mar, Serra do) compresses it against the sea. The mountainous highland comprises part of the Serra do Mar and, farther inland, part of the Serra da Mantiqueira (Mantiqueira Mountains), both of which run parallel to the coast in a roughly southwest-to-northeast direction. Some important tourist and holiday resorts— Petrópolis, Teresópolis, and Nova Friburgo—lie in this region. At 9,144 feet (2,787 metres) Agulhas Negras (Itatiaia) Peak is the highest point in the state.

      The most important feature on the plateau is the Paraíba do Sul River valley. The river flows northeastward across much of the state before turning eastward to drain into the Atlantic. Coffee plantations were first developed in the valley in the 19th century. Smaller rivers and streams drain into Guanabara Bay or directly into the Atlantic. Rio de Janeiro includes about 370 square miles (960 square km) of coastal lagoons and other internal waters.

Climate

      The state has a subtropical climate. The prevailing conditions along the coast are hot and humid and are characterized by summer showers. In winter the climate is modified by cold air masses from the south. The average daily temperature is generally above 72 °F (22 °C). The highland climate is characterized by mild temperatures that average below 68 °F (20 °C) because of the higher elevations.

Flora and fauna

      Great forests originally covered the territory of the present state of Rio de Janeiro. From the 16th century indigenous peoples and European settlers alike began to clear large tracts of land for temporary cultivation, using the queimadas (slash-and-burn (slash-and-burn agriculture)) technique. A succession of expanding sugar plantations, coffee farms, and sprawling urban centres obliterated most of the remaining forests. In the mid-20th century the Brazilian government began to reforest some highland areas, and national parks were established to protect the remnants of the original forest. Itatiaia National Park (1937), in the Mantiqueira Range, covers about 116 square miles (300 square km) of rainforest in both Rio de Janeiro and Minas Gerais states. Serra dos Órgãos National Park (1939) and the smaller Tijuca National Park (1961) are wholly within Rio de Janeiro.

      Apart from these public parks, some patches of forest vegetation still survive on a few hillsides near the city of Rio de Janeiro, but these are disappearing as the urbanized area is gradually enlarged. On the Santa Cruz, Campo Grande, and Jacarepaguá plains, grassland prevails, whereas on the muddy coastland red, yellow, and white mangroves flourish.

      The forests and wetlands support numerous animals, including ocelots, marmosets, and tortoises. Curassows, ouzels, whistling ducks, and other birds are also found there.

The people

      Rio de Janeiro state is one of the more urbanized and densely populated areas in Brazil, with the overwhelming majority of the population living in the city of Rio de Janeiro and other urban centres.

      Most of the state's people are of Portuguese, Italian, and other European ancestry. Blacks and mulattos (of mixed black and European ancestry) are also numerous, but there are only small percentages of Asians and Amerindians. The vast majority of the state's inhabitants are Roman Catholic, with Protestant and Spiritist (believers in spiritualism) minorities.

The economy

      A small percentage of the working population of the state is engaged in agriculture, a substantial proportion in manufacturing, and the majority in the service sector, including government, education, financial services, entertainment, and tourism. The state's principal industries are petroleum extraction (off shore) and refining, metallurgy, printing, shipbuilding, and the manufacture of textiles, foodstuffs, and chemicals. Agricultural products include sugarcane, oranges, and bananas.

      The state has a comprehensive road system, with multilane highways converging on the capital. The Central do Brasil and the Leopoldina railroads link the state with Brazil's national rail network. The Rio-Niterói Bridge, which is about 9 miles (14.5 km) long, connects the city of Rio de Janeiro with Niterói, located on the east side of Guanabara Bay. The state has two major airports: Santos Dumont, on Guanabara Bay within the city of Rio; and Galeão, on Governador Island in the bay, which serves international and domestic flights.

History

      The history of the state is enmeshed with that of the city of Rio de Janeiro, its chief economic and political centre from the mid-16th century until 1834, when the city first became a separate entity. In 1835 Niterói became the capital of the province of Rio de Janeiro. In 1889, when the Brazilian republic was proclaimed, the province became a state, and in 1890 Teresópolis became the capital; in 1902, however, the seat of government returned to Niterói. When the capital of Brazil was moved to the newly established city of Brasília in 1960, the territory that had been the Federal District became the new Guanabara state, which existed as an enclave within Rio de Janeiro state. In 1975 the two states were merged into the reorganized State of Rio de Janeiro. The city of Rio de Janeiro was then made the capital of the reorganized state.

      From the time of its territorial formation, the province depended on sugar production, based on slave labour (slavery), as the basis of its economy. During the 19th century, coffee replaced sugar as the most commercially significant crop. The slave trade was gradually restricted until the practice was completely abolished in 1888. The following year Brazil was proclaimed an independent republic. Rio de Janeiro remained the nation's most populous state until the mid-20th century, when it was overtaken by neighbouring São Paulo; since that time Rio de Janeiro has been Brazil's second most productive manufacturing and commercial centre.

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